Zhongyuan City God Temple Festival 中元城隍祭
City God Temple Festival
Once a year, all eyes of Taiwan are on Hsinchu’s City God Temple (新竹城隍廟). Being the highest ranking temple out of the 95 City God Temples around the island, many troupes and delegates will take a pilgrimage to Hsinchu to pay their respects to the chief City God. With so many colorful processions and performers on the city streets, this is one of the few times Hsinchu awakens from its sleep and comes alive with life and music.
The festival is held during Zhongyuan Festival (中元城隍祭), also known as Ghost Month (鬼月). The City God (城隍爺) is known as a magistrate or even a sheriff of the underworld. Officers will bring lost souls to him and are then processed before being left in hell. Once a year, during the City God Temple Festival, the gates of the underworld are opened and these forgotten souls can find some peace with the offerings left out by the living.
While the spirits are wandering the streets, the City God prepares for his big inspection of the city. The days leading up to the inspection are marked with many events. Nearly every day during the Zhongyuan Festival has some even happening at the City God Temple.
Another festival you’ll want to be sure not to miss is Hsinchu’s Dragon Boat Festival!
City God Temple Schedule (竹塹中元城隍祭活动):
The Zhongyuan City God Temple festival is made up of many different events. The most important dates are highlighted below.
- 6/12 Yinyang God Leaves His Shrine (陰陽司公出神龕)
- 6/29 11:00 pm Lion Gate (Ghost Gate) Opens (開虎(鬼)門)
- 7/1 4:00 pm Removing of the Cangue (脫枷消業植福法會)
- 7/12 11:00 am City God and the Six General Leave Their Shrine (城隍爺出神龕)
- 7/13 6:00 pm Night Patrol (查夜暗訪)
- 7/14 9:00 am (迎路關)
- 7/15 1:00 pm City God City Inspection (新竹都城隍遶境賑孤)
- 7/16 City God County Inspection (外庄出巡)
- 7/19 Prayers for the Ghosts (普渡)
- 7/20 City God and the Six General Return To Their Shrine (城隍爺入神龕)
- 7/26 (城隍夫人聖誕)
- 7/29 11:00 pm Lion Gate (Ghost Gate) Closes (關虎(鬼)門)
*dates are according to the Lunar Calander
The Ghost Gate Opens
On the last day of the 6th month according to the Lunar Calander, the gates to the underworld are opened. Starting as early as 9:00 in the evening, crowds will arrive at Hsinchu’s City God Temple to witness the ghosts being released out onto the streets. The ghost gate (also known as the Lion Gate) is the left set of doors you see when looking at the front of the temple.
If you’re wanting a good spot to witness the opening of the gates of hell, be sure to not stand directly in front of the doors. It is said that if you’re in the path of the ghosts when the gates are opened, you’ll become terribly sick for the weeks to come. Starting at 11 pm, priests (師公) and qiyebaye (七爺八爺) will begin the ceremony to open the gates and kick off Ghost Month.
If you want to check out more about opening the Ghost Gate, be sure to read the full article here!
Removing of the Cangue
The day after the Ghost Gates are opened, Hsinchu then hosts the largest “removing of the cangue” (脫枷消業植福法會) ceremony in all of Taiwan. This tradition involves “sinners” punishing themselves by wearing shackles to atone for the wrongdoings they have committed in the last year. Participants parade through the streets before arriving at Zhangzhi Family Temple (鄭氏家廟). The God of Yinyang (陰陽司) sets up in front of the temple and oversees all of the believers get absolved of their sins by priests.
The participants in the procession pay for the cangue worn around their necks. They gather at the City God Temple at 4:00 pm and arrive at the family temple at around 5:30. The procession takes participants past many of the most famous sights of downtown, including the East Gate.
If you want to find out more about this procession, you can find the main article here!
Night Patrol
A few days before the main event of the Zhongyuan City God Temple Festival, the gods ensure that all is safe in Hsinchu. It is the job of the second son of the City God to patrol the streets at night to make sure all if safe before the inspection takes place a few days later. With participants holding torches to lead the way, the second son and the escorts of hell walk the historic border of the city of Hsinchu.
The night patrol (查夜暗訪) starts at 6 pm and lasts until 11 pm. Even if you are not wielding a torch, you can still follow the procession through the city. The troupe stops at many temples along the way. The gods and deities await the procession and greet the second son. Walking down wide avenues, it is surreal to see how much of Hsinchu is shut down to make way for the night procession
If you want to know more about the Night Patrol, you can read the full article here!
Inspection of the City God
The main event of the Zhongyuan City God Temple Festival is when the City God himself takes to the streets with his entourage to search for lost souls around Hsinchu. The City God has many toupes that accompany him through the city. Lion dancers, drummers, and dancers all announce the coming of the City God. It is up to the god himself to decide when to end the inspection, not those who are carrying him. The City God begins his procession at 1:00 pm on 7/15.
Even though the City God Inspection starts at 1:00, there are events and troupes throughout Hsinchu all day. From early morning to late at night, performers from all around Taiwan make their way to the stage built in front of the City God Temple, to pay their respects. It is recommended that if you want to find the best spot to view the temple fair to arrive at 4:00 pm.
Want to read even more about the City God Inspection? You can find the full article here!
Ghost Month in Hsinchu
Celebrating Ghost Month and the Zhongyuan City God Temple Festival is an experience unlike any other. With so many unique traditions and customs packed into a short month, you’ll be witnessing something new nearly every day. Few people have the time to take in each and every detail of the festival, but participating in even just one of the events is more than enough to have you falling in love with Taiwanese culture.
What really makes this holiday special is the fact that even traffic bends to the will of the gods. While the streets are usually given to cars, when the gods venture out, all of Hsinchu makes way for them. Many of the processions will have you even walking up overpasses, giving you one-of-a-kind views of the city below.
Zhongyuan City God Festival brings all of the community of Hsinchu together. It is not only the people of Hsinchu who you’ll be rubbing elbows with but also the ghosts who are roaming the streets.
Looking for a list of the best things to do in Hsinchu? You can find a full list here!