Winter in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky
The World’s Second Largest Isolated City
There is no way someone could find themselves simply “passing through” Kamchatka. Located on the most remote corner in Russia’s Far East, the Kamchatka peninsula offers rugged, unforgiving landscapes sprinkled with over 160 volcanoes.
Getting to this isolated province also takes a fair amount of planning. Kamchatka’s capital, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, is the second largest city in the world not accessible by road. ( The first being Iquitos in Peru) Even after arriving in Kamchatka, getting around the peninsula is no easy feat. Buses only run between major cities, but these “cities” may only have populations bearly surpassing 3,000.
Depending on your time, money, and ultimately your desire this land of fire and ice can offer you months of rugged exploration. Kamchatka is a land of vast mountainous wilderness which has never truly been tamed, the whole country is just one massive adventure just waiting for brave travelers.
Tips:
To get from the airport to 4km Bus Station/Старый рынок (Downtown Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky) take bus 104 for 60 Rubbles (0.90 USD)
Read more about going to Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky here or here!
Why Are You Here?
In the dead of winter, you will find few tourists making the trip out to the farthest corner of the globe. When checking into your hostel the staff may even be dumbfounded as to why exactly a traveler would choose the coldest of months to visit one of most remote places on the planet.
The fact of the matter is that if you don’t have money to hire a helicopter or a guide, you are more or less grounded in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. What brings most people to Kamchatka is the bears and the volcanos. While you may not be able to find many bears within the city limits, you will, however, constantly be in the presence of enormous imposing volcanos. Flying in with the snowy funnel frame of Avachinsky outside your window is more than enough to make you glad you made the trek out to one of the worlds most secluded destinations.
Looking to splurge on a tour? Check out these websites here, here, and here!
Churches and Statues
When browsing through the list of things to do in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky proper, you will see an abundance of statues. This is not to say that Kamchatka’s capital is literally bursting to the seams with heroic and dramatic sculptures of Lenin (as great as that may be) but rather there is a mere lack of things to actually see in town.
The main attraction, by far, is walking along Avacha Bay in basking in the sheer majesty of the volcanos looming over bobbing vessels in the harbor. Being able to walk along the coast and enjoy the striking scenery is weather dependent, however. If you are unlucky enough to have a mass of clouds shroud all of the surrounding mountain peaks, you will quickly find yourself making a pilgrimage from Orthodox church to heroic statue to pass the time.
A Military Hub
Even well after the fall of the Soviet Union, Kamchatka is still home to many closed cities and military bases. This remote peninsula not only is the headquarters for Russia’s entire Pacific fleet but also has the country’s largest submarine base. It goes without saying that as a tourist you need to be careful where you wander. Directly across from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, on the other side of Avacha Bay is Vilyuchinsky, a closed military city closed to all tourists and even most Russians.
If you do happen to run across a military base enclosed with endless amounts of barbed wire and barricades, you may be lucky enough to interact with some of Russia’s finest. Due to the isolation that many of these soldiers face on the frigid coast of Kamchatka, they will energetically jump to any opportunity to talk to visitors, especially foreign tourists. Warmed and fueled by the vodka, they shook my hand and had a message of peace. After saying many vulgar words referring to the governments of the United States and Russia, he made sure to get to the point that no matter what the governments do, the people of our two countries will always be friends.
You can read about exploring abandoned Soviet bunkers in Kamchatka here!
The Outskirts of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky
Exploring all of Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky shouldn’t take more than just a couple of days. Even if you don’t have time to visit some of the more distant, indigenous populated areas of Kamchatka, the temptation to brave the cold and travel to the outskirts of the city will be far too great.
One of the easiest day trips that you can do near Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky is making the hike to the Three Brothers, a rock formation in Avachinskaya Bay. The closest you can get to the start of the treck to the Three Brothers is from Zavoyko, which is roughly 9 miles from downtown Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. From there it is a 7-mile walk down the coast to get a view of the pillars.
Kamchatka at Night
If you are looking for a stunning view over the city of Petropavlosk-Kamchatsky but not willing to climb the summit of Avachinsky, Mishennaya Hill is the closest lookout you can find within city limits. From its peak, you can get a breathtaking view of Avacha Bay and its many volcanos dotting the coastline.
During the summer getting to the top of Mishennaya is a leisurely hike, during the dead of winter, however, you will find yourself shuffling through over a foot of snow. Despite the rather strenuous hike to the peak, the view of the icy landscape below will sure to be one of the highlights of your trip.
The Land of Ice and Fire
Traveling to Kamchatka is venturing into one of the last untamed expanses of wilderness on earth. With endless forests, coast to coast volcanos, and the majestic packs of bears wandering the countryside, Russia’s far east is truly one of the world’s final frontiers.
Those with ample time or money at your disposal, one can travel Kamchatka properly, experiencing the authentic rustic nature of the country. Without adequate resources or time, being in Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky alone may be a bit of a disappointment. Some describe the city as being dreary, dilapidated, and in ruin. Kamchatka and it’s frozen capital is not for everyone. If you can appreciate crumbling apartment blocks, black beaches, and jagged volcanic peaks, Russia’s far east awaits you just a few steps off the beaten path.