What To Do In Wuhan: Salvation Church 救世堂
Wuhan (武汉市) is a major city located in central China. Although large, both in land size and population, as well as being the provincial capital, travelers both domestic and international ask me, “What is there to do in Wuhan?” This is a question not easily answered. When using Google or Trip Advisor, it is difficult to find a listing of travel destinations to inspire you to take your next trip to Wuhan. It is my hope to convince you otherwise, and show you a bit of Wuhan off the beaten path.
When taking the bus over JiangHan Bridge from HanKou to HanYang, out of the corner of my eye I noticed an old brick church draped in ivy on the right side of the road. This is not a common sight in China, due to their rather strained relationship with religion (especially Christianity).As a result, churches are seldom seen, especially ones still holding services. Many have been turned into historic relics, a reminder of a begone time when Europeans would carve up a city with their each respective concessions.
The chapel is quite unique; with an European-esque, ivy clad, brick facade, adorned with a Chinese style terracotta roof, and a red cross perched on top. Although quite visible from the street, the church is currently locked up tighter than Fort Knox. The interior courtyard is enclosed by high brick walls and a single entrance tunneled through the brick, locked shut with an iron gate. After walking around the outer walls I came to the conclusion there was no way in other than the intimidating iron gate at the front. I stood there peering in, hoping to catch the attention of anyone who may be lingering inside.
Looking from the bars at the gate, I saw a few figures wandering around in the courtyard. I managed to get their attention and slowly one of the shadows moved from the light into the shade of the tunnel. As she approached closer, she was complaining under her breath and barked at me, asking what I wanted. I explained that I was there to take a look at the church. She was then quick to cut me off saying that it is undergoing repairs and is closed. I went on to persuade her that I could just take a look from the outside, and am looking to promote their city. With a few more grunts, she pulled out a remote and with the press of a button this old colonial style gate swung open.
I began to ask her questions about the church but she simply snapped back saying that she is just here to repair the church, not one of the congregation. She then directed me to an introduction of the church on a wall by the entrance:
English missionaries have been working in HanKou (Wuhan) as early as 1864, with a focus on providing medical care for locals, as well as spreading Christianity. Salvation Church (救世堂）was built by these missionaries in 1930 and is the earliest site in Wuhan where missionary work has been conducted. In 1941, due to the ongoing war with Japan, the church halted operations yet still served as a refuge for those displaced by conflict. After the war with Japan ended and the civil war came to a close, Salvation Church became affiliated with a local girls school and also continued to provide medical treatment. Today every Sunday afternoon Salvation Church holds two church services, on Tuesday they have disciple, Thursday they hold group prayers, and youth groups are organized every Saturday. (Although, now it is currently being renovated)
The courtyard is currently bare, piles of grey bricks are neatly stacked against decorated walls depicting Jesus, doves, and other typical Christian imagery. All the pews are also stacked on top of each other to the side of the church building. I drummed up some courage and re-approached the rather unapproachable woman, asking when the restorations will be complete, as if I was pulling teeth she, in a gasp, responded next year. Although, I think she was just saying anything to get me to leave her alone.
Salvation Church is definitely worth a visit, especially if you are living in Wuhan looking for something to do. Nearby is a large wholesale market which is always bustling with activity, giving you a more local feel of the city, although, it looks like construction workers are ready to move in and tear down this old city block, but not to fear, Salvation Church is a protected site by the local government and will still be standing while the world outside its walls are constantly changing.
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