What To Do In Tansen, Palpa

Forgotten on the Hilltop

Tansen was once the center of the great Magar Kingdom, a country so great that it invaded Kathmandu Valley and nearly took over all of Nepal. As history would have it, influence waned in this once great kingdom and the seat of power in Tansen was reduced to no more than a trading post between India and Tibet.

Today the city of Tansen is largely overlooked by both local Nepalis and tourists alike. People’s eyes are more likely to be drawn towards the lakeside town of Pokhara or the sprawling city of Kathmandu. Little do they know that the hilltop town of Tansen has as much history and culture to rival the likes of any city in the Kathmandu Valley.

If you are looking for another off the beaten path town in Nepal check out Panauti!

Reviving the Kingdom

Tourism is a big part of the backbone which drives the Nepali economy. While much investment has been made in places such as Bhaktapur and Patan, Tansen has been left to rot under the rain and clouds which encircle this hilltop town.

Fortunately, there has been a push in recent years to bring this once mighty capital back into the spotlight. Tansen’s position smack between Lumbini and Pokhara makes the town an ideal resting point for travelers.

Hotels and restaurants have begun popping up throughout the city. Efforts have been made to redo the roads with interlocking cobblestone to provide more of that “ancient” atmosphere most tourists are searching for in historic Nepali cities.

Despite all the facelifts Tansen has seen, there is still a lack of tourists frequenting the shops and restaurants around town. By the current looks of things, the city is still in the process of preparing for the ensuing wave of travelers who will be making the pilgrimage up to this town up in the clouds.

How To Get To Tansen

The most direct way to get to Tansen is from Butwal which is roughly 45 km away. If you are coming from Pokhara or are unable to find a direct bus from Butwal you will have to first get off at Bartung at the base of the hill to Tansen and then take a jeep for about 30 Rupees (0.30 USD).

You can read more on Tansen here!

Exploring the Temples

Tansen is one of the few places outside of Kathmandu Valley which is home to a large Newar population. As one may well know after spending some time in and around Kathmandu, the Newar people are well known for their elaborate traditions and festivals. It is no wonder that the steep winding streets of Tansen are sprinkled with temples and shrines hidden behind every corner.

Although not one of the most breathtaking temples in Tansen, Ranaujireshwori Bhagawati Temple is by far one of the most famous. After the defeat of 4,000 British soldiers by the hands of Ujir Singh Thapa, a chariot festival is held every year on Krishna Janmashtami to thank the goddess of the temple for the victory.

If you are looking to see another festival in Nepal check out the Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur!

Amar Narayan Temple

The one temple in Tansen which will have tourists quickly whipping out their cameras is the Amar Narayan Temple. Being far away from the heavily populated Newar communities in the Kathmandu Valley, finding elaborate style pagodas such as this is a bit of a rarity.

Incorporated into the meticulous wood carvings on the pillars and frames of the pagoda are many erotic figures representing contentment for the physical world. This sexual imagery is usually more than enough to have curious tourists scramble up the temple steps to awe and snicker at the carvings.

The Amar Narayan Temple also hosts two aarti pujas every day, one in the morning at 5 o’clock and the other during the evening at 7. This makes for the perfect time to see local devotees worship their gods and see the temple grounds come to life through prayer.

Wanting to read more on aarti pujas? Check out Panauti’s aarti puja here!

Tansen’s Durbar Square

What was once the center of the Kingdom of Palpa has definitely seen better days. The large regal gates which led into the palace of the Rana is now obstructed by piles of rubble and a chain-linked fence. This already takes away from the grand entrance one would expect when visiting the residence of the royal family.

During the civil war, the durbar square was the location of some of the fiercest fighting with the Maoist rebels. While the city around the palace has continued to prosper, the palace itself has still not recovered from the battle. The original palace was razed and today a bright red building stands on its ashes. The square is now home to many government offices and a palace museum, although the opening times for the museum are not fixed.

Looking to check out another city on the way to Pokhara or Butwal? Why not stop in Putalibazar?

Climbing Up Srinagar Hill

One of the things that have tourists convinced to travel up to Tansen is that this is the first place where people can see the Himilayas coming from India. It is not only the chance to see the snow-capped mountains that have tourists hiking to the top of Srinagar Hill but in the early morning, the White Lake emerges in the plains in the valley. As you may have guessed, the “White Lake” is fog collected in the basin below the city of Tansen.

Regardless if you find yourself waking up in the early morning to catch a glimpse of the elusive White Lake, or are just looking to take a hike, Srinagar Hill is one of the most famous spots in Tansen for tourists and locals alike.

A tower has even been erected at the peak of the hill to offer better views of the valley below and the Himalayas. Much like the Tansen Durbar Museum, there is no fixed time when the gates will be opened. If you are lucky enough to be able to climb the view tower, prices are 25 Rupees for locals and 100 Rupees for foreigners.

After climbing to the top of Srinagar Hill and finding the view tower closed you may be asking yourself, “what now?” There are still a few more spots you can check out at the summit, but don’t expect to have your socks knocked off. Along the pathway, you will find a small gated complex with a statue to Lord Buddha and a statue of Lord Hanuman.

Looking for some other hikes in Nepal? Check out Namo Buddha!

The Street Art of Tansen

While you are busy checking off all Tansen’s sights off of your list, you will eventually find that the true beauty of Tansen is found on the streets. Unlike many of the other cities in Palpa and surrounding districts, Tansen has an underground youth culture which is slowly breaking through to the surface.

Simply by walking through the streets of Tansen, you can see the younger generations leaving their mark on their city. This can be found in the form of street art, to hip restaurants, and even live music venues. While this is still a very new phenomenon in Tansen, as the years go by the art scene will only continue to grow and reinvent this forgotten hilltop town.

Welcome to Tansen

Tansen is a town laying off of the beaten path but is just begging to be discovered. Nowadays, this forgotten ancient capital is only visited by truly adventurous backpackers or long-time residents in Nepal. With literally no crowds and beauty to rival even the largest cities in Nepal, it is a shame this city hasn’t been put in the spotlight sooner.

These steep alleyways, traditional Newar architecture, and towering pagodas are just a fraction of all the things that could be explored in Tansen. The people of Palpa are waiting anxiously for curious backpackers to make the treck to their hilltop roost, but for the time being, Tansen is still considered well off the beaten track.