Traveling to the City States of the Persian Gulf
The Land of Oil Funded Mega Malls
For many travelers, the cities in the Persian Gulf are mere layover destinations. Built from the sands up, each of these kingdoms used their bountiful deposits of oil to kick-start their countries and diversify their economies. Learned from past lessons, dependence on nothing but oil is setting oneself up for failure. Thus, the Kings and Emirs of the Middle East attracted bankers, airlines, and even architects to their borders. It wasn’t long before the treasuries were bursting to the seams with riches and the Sheikhs built their kingdoms of mega malls and sky scrappers out of the golden dunes.
As a world traveler, you are sure to pass through the airports of Abu Dhabi, Dubai, or Doha at one time or another. After touching down in one of these transport hubs, the temptation will be too great to venture out of the terminal and explore the city-state under that scorching hot Arabian sun beating down on you. We visited the UAE, Bahrain, Kuwait, and Qatar to get a taste of the local culture and see how they fair as a travel destination for backpackers.
The United Arab Emirates
One could go as far as to say that the United Arab Emirates are actually a coalition of seven city-states, or sheikhdoms, that banded together to form the UAE. An invitation was extended to Bahrain and Qatar during the initial formation of the UAE in 1971 to join the alliance but declined in favor of their own autonomy.
Since the creation of the United Arab Emirates, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi have led the way for the Middle East. The Sheikhs created a blueprint for how once nomadic tribes could tap into their God-given resources and be the rulers of modern kingdoms. The UAE is both the model and the envy of the Gulf. From dreamlike mosques, outlandish malls, and skyscrapers which peak into the heavens, nations around Arabia are scrambling to move the spotlight off of Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
You can read more about the formation of the UAE here or here!
An Architects Playground
No matter if you are looking to check off the Burj Khalifa off of your bucket list or are just looking to market at some of the greatest engineering marvels of the modern age, Dubai is literally a gallery of some of the world’s most unique architectural wonders.
In downtown Dubai, along Sheikh Zayed Road, travelers will see a showcase of these steel and glass works of art lined up perfectly in a row. Much like how Las Vegas is an oasis of neon sin that emerges from the sands of the American South West, Dubai’s skyline is merely a long strip of iconic skyscrapers that pierce through the night even from the furthest dunes.
Dubai’s buildings are the envy of the rest of the world. If any other city could have their pick of skyscrapers off of the Dubai strip, you would find it adopted as the symbol of the city, plastered on every logo and souvenir. Dubai is lucky enough to have slews of these glistening metal pinnacles which attracts tourists from around the globe.
Anyone can go up the Burj Khalifa, but you can get another great view of the city from Level 43 Sky Lounge.
Finding the Soul of the UAE
Tourists may be able to escape the glimmering utopia out to the dunes on tours if you don’t have your own car available. Many of these tours will include dune bashing, dinner and a show which includes belly and fire dancing. These, however, are mere performances and don’t truly represent what Emirati culture is like.
The UAE, much like the rest of the Gulf city-states, are countries built and run by expat workers. In Old Dubai, the traditional ferry carting passengers across the creek is almost exclusively used by South Asian workers. Even seeing a local Emirati is a bit of a rarity since locals only make up a mere 12% of the population.
While in the United Arab Emirates it is possible to get a bit off the beaten track, but you will need to hire your own car or join an over-priced tour. Many people will make an excursion to Al Ain to try and get a taste of local gulf culture but will be disappointed to find the camel market is run by many South Asians who demand money for taking pictures of their livestock.
In only one or two days, you can see the mosques, climb up the towers, and get your fill of the Emirate high life. For those looking to see authentic Gulf culture which is an active part of people’s daily lives, you will need to make a trip out to Oman.
You can read more about Dubai desert safaris here!
Bahrain
There are many reasons why Bahrain decided not to join the group of other Sheikhdoms to form the United Arab Emirates. One of these is that due to Iran’s claim on the island nation would have caused trouble for the newly formed UAE. Once the matter was taken before the United Nations, Iran back down from their claim thus giving Bahrain no need to join a coalition of states.
Another reason for Bahrain’s autonomy is that this island nation was one of the first countries to find oil in the 20th century, meaning they developed much earlier when compared to the surrounding city-states. With a strong economy and progressive politics, Bahrain was considered much more advanced than the neighboring emirates.
You can read more about the reasons Bahrain didn’t join the UAE here!
A Game of Catch-up
Although Bahrain was given a head start on development which kick-started their economy, their capital city of Manama is decades behind Dubai in terms of modern splendor. The rather drab low lying city only has one iconic skyscraper which looms over the city like Mount Doom. The Bahrain World Trade Center, while innovative in design and pleasing to the eye, actually stands as an architectural blunder.
The implication of turbines was meant as a way to cut down energy costs for the building, while this cutting-edge technology is enough to make any tourist raise their camera to snap a rather uninspiring picture of the steel pyramid, it doesn’t change the fact that the architects made one fatal mistake: they built the skyscraper in the wrong direction. If the Bahrain World Trade Center made a 180-degree turn, the building would produce 15% more energy per year. Despite this rather critical design flaw, the skyscraper does add some pizzazz to Manama, serving as a glowing point of reference if not for anything else.
You can read more about the Bahrain World Trade Center Here!
Unassuming Manama
The framework for swanky uber rich villas and shopping malls to rival Doha’s The Peral or Dubai’s Palm Island. After the UAE stunned the world with its stunning architecture and engineering projects that bent the natural world to the will of man, the neighboring Gulf countries have been scrambling to jump on the wave of international investment and projects that will bring in the world’s mega-rich.
For the time being, Manama offers a less assuming view of modern Gulf life. When compared to the other kingdoms, you are more likely to interact with native Bahrainis since they make up 46% of the population. The maze of old sun-baked apartments and lack of urban planning in some areas add to the overall charm of the city. While you may find little to do aside from a fort on the outskirts of town, Bahrain is a country that is brimming with life. The down-to-earth atmosphere may not last long, however, as many countries sacrifice the little things that make them special for shining pillars of steel.
Kuwait
The riches of the small country of Kuwait are so great that Iraq actually tried to annex the country to seize their oil fields by force. Due to the nation’s bountiful oil deposits, Kuwait’s currency, the dinar, is tied with the British sterling as being the strongest currency in the world.
Countries like the UAE, on the other hand, have very few oil reserves. After striking black gold other Gulf kingdoms quickly took that revenue and invested in industries such as banking and tourism. Kuwait, however, is sitting on 10% of the worlds oil reserves and has made little efforts to diversify their economy. The lack of investment in things such as aesthetics and beautification of Kuwait City is apparent when walking through the sand-colored concrete buildings that make up the capital.
You can read about how to get a visa to Kuwait here!
Stuck in the 90s
There is not much to Kuwait City, the drab concrete blocks look as if they have not been touched for decades. Amongst the rather uninspiring buildings, you will find American fast food chains sprinkled about, being the only splash of color in a sea of beige. The mega malls and supermarkets may not be able to hold a light to those in Dubai in terms of extravagance but are just as big in size.
This is not to say, however, that Kuwait has no soul. On the contrary, the monochromatic buildings of Kuwait are so mundane that they almost transcend being labeled dreary to a level of artistic value only an artist or photographer could appreciate.
The Markets of Kuwait
The saving grace of Kuwait is how genuine the people are. When resorting to exploring the city on foot during the peak of summer, it is not uncommon that a local Kuwaiti might pull over to offer you a ride to your destination. Even the local markets embody the spirit of an old-timey souq with men bartering with each other and owners lounging outside of their storefronts.
It is curious that a country so wealthy would not want to flaunt off its riches by investing in a more commanding skyline. Perhaps part of the appeal to Kuwait is that despite their strong economy they feel no need to waste money on unnecessarily lavish skyscrapers and shopping malls. For the time, Kuwait still has a beating heart and soul that can only be found for those who wander off of the beaten path.
Qatar
Qatar has always pitted itself as being the rival of the United Arab Emirates. Upon the creation of the UAE, Qatar was in talks of joining the coalition of kingdoms, but in the end, pulled out due to Sheikh Zayed rejecting the proposal for the capital to be placed in Qatar and for the merging of several small emirates.
Since Qatar becoming an independent state and more so after a bloodless coup disposed of the old king in 1995, Qatar has made use of its oil and gas exports to invest in media, air travel, and tourism. The severing of ties and isolation of Qatar during the diplomatic crisis of 2018 had the opposite effect that the opposition would have hoped for. Qatar has since become more self-reliant and has continued its steady climb to topple the UAE as the pearl of the Middle East.
You can read more about the diplomatic crisis here!
The Neon City
When you think of neon, Doha may not be the first city that comes to mind. The tacky animatronic signs of Las Vegas or the clustered lights of Hong Kong are some of the first places you’d think of that host a stunning display of vibrant colors which pierce the night. While unknown to much of the world, Doha’s very highways are lined with a display of flashing neon colors as if to wave in slews of tourists to the glistening city.
It is not only the skyline which is lit up every night, but the dhows also take travelers out on the water in style with the hull being lined in streams of fluorescent vivid colors. Some may see it as a blinding eyesore, other as a nightly parade of radiant colors, no matter how you look at, the neon spectacle is what truly makes Doha unique.
You can read more about the traditional dhows here!
Disney Arabia
Doha may have the skyline, but what they lack is the transportation and the entertainment to keep travelers within their city limits for more than just a few hours. Qatar may be a classic case of a place that is better to live than to travel to. The malls are comparable to anything Dubai has to offer, enough museums that will have you wandering the halls looking at anything from Islamic art to Qatari relics for a few hours, other than just a couple of things there is little to get excited about in Doha.
The souq is actually the defining destination in all of the capital. Adopting a traditional Arabic style of architecture, the mud walls create the illusion of stepping back in time to the romantic age of when nomads gracefully wandered the desert. There are even several men who are paid to trot down the main stretch of the market on horseback to further add to the traditional ambiance.
While one can appreciate the efforts put into giving people a traditional Qatari experience, one can not shake the feeling they are at Disney World rather than in the Middle East. The souq does sell traditional clothing and even some small animals, but overall the market lacks any sense of authenticity.
Doha is a city that seems to rival Dubai on the surface, but you will quickly realize the city is still years from catching up with Dubai in terms of architectural wonders and places that captivate tourist attention. While still an interesting place to visit, for the time being, Qatar is nothing more than a quick layover destination. Even then, travelers may find more to do in the airport terminal than the city itself.
Traveling to the Persian Gulf
From desert safaris to skyscrapers which are sure to make even the workers of the Tower of Babel blush, the city-states of the Persian Gulf are known throughout the world as being a refuge for the uber rich and a sandbox for architects. Although the marketing has made people from all nations dream of a day they can visit these desert utopias, the reality is a little bit different.
These small countries have welcomed with open arms all of the West’s top luxury brands and greasy fast food chains, meaning other than seeing people walking around in a dishdasha or a niqab, you may feel as if you have never left home. To find the authentic side of the Gulf you will have to travel a bit deeper. Attending traditional events such as a falconry competition or camel competitions are a way to get a true feel of what Arab culture is like.
While not as gilded as the city-states like to brand themselves as, Oman is one of the last places in the Middle-East where you can witness traditional culture being embodied in people’s everyday life. If you are dead set on traveling to one of the smaller kingdoms, you still can’t beat the UAE. Although lacking any soul, you will still find enough to occupy yourself with for a day or two until you travel to a country that better encompasses their culture in modern life.
