The Women of Ishkashim Afghanistan
One People Separated By a Border
Today, the Panj River may serve as the boundary between Afghanistan and Tajikistan, but at one time this area was the land of the Tajik Badakshan people. As western powers fought for over control over the region, borders were drawn, leaving a once untied people to develop into two vastly different cultures.
While being under Soviet rule comes with its fair share of problems, it does, however, encourage secularism and gender equality. The days of being a Socialist Soviet Republic are far gone, but Tajikistan’s platform of being a secular country is still deeply inbred in its policies. Some even attribute Tajikistan’s strict restrictions on Islam as a reason for radicalization and the recent terrorist attacks.
On the other hand, women are free to wear what that please and pursue an education without the risk of violence, the same can not be said for their brothers and sisters on the other side of the river.
How to Approach Women
As a man traveling to conservative Muslim countries, it is sometimes difficult to know how to approach women in public. In other Muslim countries, women usually refuse to pose for pictures stating that their religion or overbearing husbands forbid it. The mere act of calling a woman beautiful will sometimes be met with curses and hostility.
In restaurants, women are seated behind a curtain away from the male patrons. When money is given to a female shopkeeper, patrons should place the money in a tray on the counter, not directly into her hand.
After dealing with so many rules and social restrictions in less extreme countries, it is easy for one to be paranoid about disrespecting the local customs when traveling to Afghanistan.
Above all else, travelers should try their best to make people comfortable while still sharing their own foreign culture.
For solo female travelers, you can read about traveling to Afghanistan as a woman here!
Going to the Market
The most lively place of Ishkashim is the crossroads which make up the downtown, as well as the bazaar. All things are sold here such as clothing, makeup, food, electronics, and livestock. On top of being a market, this small intersection is also the main transport hub, linking Ishkashim to the rest of the country. For all these reasons, downtown Ishkashim is of the utmost importance for all people living in nearby villages.
When crossing the river and climbing the hill to the market, you can see groups of women walking with their burkas lifted above their faces. The second they meet an unfamiliar man they will quickly adjust their burka to be hidden under a veil of blue fabric.
Uncovered women above the age of 12 are extremely uncommon, only young girls are left with wearing a simple hijab or scarf. Interactions with women are also extremely limited. Other than speaking to a shopkeeper, you will not see women idly making small talk or lazily drinking tea like the men.
Unlike what westerners have been told in the media, women are now allowed to visit the markets without a male escort. Women can be seen shopping in groups or by themselves, browsing through the various stalls and shops.
Women in the Villages
In contrast to the city, the surrounding villages are much more welcoming. Other than the market, you will not see burkas in any other place in Ishkashim. Young children will giggle and wave when passing by, shouting out what bits of English they have learned in school.
Older women, dressed in traditional Badakhshan dress will slowly shuffle down the path, staring at you as if you have just fallen from the surface of Mars. Young women will curiously peek through windows and wave from their balconies, welcoming foreign tourists. The treatment you receive also depends on which village you are hiking through. Each collection of houses is divided into families. Aunts, Uncles, Cousins, and Grandparents are living in one village.
While some villages are more progressive-minded, others are quite conservative. Young girls leaving their homes to fetch water will stop like a deer in headlights at the sight of an unfamiliar man. Suddenly, they will dart into a nearby alleyway or thicket of trees to hide until you have passed.
When exploring the villages of Ishkashim it is best to keep your distance until you are given a clear signal that the local people are comfortable with you, especially when talking to women.
Aspiring Women
Children are quick to play and goof around when seeing a foreign traveler pass through their village. Even mothers watching from a safe distance would sometimes crack a smile and laugh watching the hijinks of their toddlers. Most surprising was that afterword of a tourist visiting the village got out, college-aged women would even try to strike up a conversation to practice their English.
After being invited back to their house for refreshments, the conversation strayed away from the typical introductions and led to talks of politics and women’s rights. These university-aged girls spoke of changing the world, studying politics abroad to be the first woman in parliament from their district, and becoming doctors to help the people in their village.
Along with their education also comes the danger of being persecuted by the Taliban. If knowledge of them seeking higher education was found out, their whole family would risk being intimidated and attacked by terrorist organizations which hold territory a mere 30 km away.
Parental Guidance
It is not only the women who are risking their lives pursuing an education, it is also the parents. These fathers and mothers are the encouragement and motivation which inspires these young women to stand up to oppression and change the world. They not only oppose the Taliban, but these fathers also face ridicule and harassment from neighbors and family members.
Other children are not as lucky. When asked to take a group of girls photograph, these children retreated into their home at the sight of their parents walking towards them down the dirt path. After a few minutes of hiking through the woods, the girls jumped through a group of trees and asked me to take their picture. They obviously snuck out of their home to find me. As soon as they got a look at their photograph, the two girls giggled and ran back to their home before their parents would notice that they have left.
Why is Ishkashim So Different?
On the surface, Ishkashim would seem like a model community for the rest of Afghanistan. There are several reasons for this remote Wakhan village’s rather progressive outlook on foreigners, education, and women’s rights. The first reason is simple: location.
Ishkashim is located in an isolated region of Afghanistan, far out of reach from the Taliban. During the civil war, it was even a safe-haven for progressive leader Ahmad Shah Massoud and the Anti-Taliban Northen Alliance. Another reason is religion. Afghanistan is predominantly Sunni Muslim, making up 90% of the population. Ishkashim is one of the few places that follow a Shia sect called Ismailism, leaving them uninfluenced by the Sunni majority.
The last reason would be the impact of foreign tourists. Although small, the increase in tourism to the region will only continue to help change people’s lives for the better. Most tourists simply head straight to the Wakhan corridor, skipping Ishkashim altogether.
This city is an inclusive open-minded place which is meant to be explored. It is one of the few places in Afghanistan where you can visit someone’s home, see the burkas hung on the racks, and break bread with the entire family.
Ready to take your next trip to Afghanistan?
Check out my Afghanistan Visa Guide here or contact the Ishkashim tourism board directly here!
Want to know more about Women’s rights in Afghanistan? Check out Amensty Internationals page on Afghanistan
