Road to Borobudur
Uncovering Borobudur
Word of the grandeur of the Borobudur Temple has been heard from all corners of the world. This enormously sized structure built with volcanic rock emerges from the dense tropical jungles of Central Java. Due to mass conversions of the native population to Islam, Buddhist monuments such as Borobudur were abandoned but never forgotten. Local folklore attracted European archeologists to the gates of the vine riddled temple. Slowly they cut back the jungle growth and exposed the majestic stupas and pensive buddhas of this once lost wonder.
Today, restoration efforts are still underway, but overall Borobudur has been restored to its former glory and allures tourists from around the world. The temple itself is divided into three bases which represent the three spheres of Buddhism which is needed to pass through in order to obtain nirvana. Abandoning desire and being a shapeless nameless entity one with the universe may be the last thing on the selfie-stick waving tourist’s mind. The sheer beauty of the temple itself proves that even when abandoning vanity, the monks still had an eye for aesthetics.
You can read more about the history of the Borobudur Temple here!
Chasing the Sunrise
The most stunning views of the towering temple and it’s eloquently carved sculptures were taken just as the sun begins to peek its head over the low hanging mist above the vivid green of the jungle. The most rewarding way to make the journey out to this secluded temple would be to wake up in the middle of the night, saddle up on your motorbike (rented for about 50,000 IDR/3 USD), and drive through the mid-night fog up to Borobudur. From Yogyakarta, the temple is roughly 42km away, taking only a little over an hour to arrive.
At 4:30 am tickets are available to enter the temple early to view the sunrise from the Manohara Resort for 500,000 IRP/ 36.5 USD. There is no guarantee, however, that you will be given that postcard orange and red sunrise you saw on the brochure. The receptionist at the hotel is typically kind enough to advise tourists if there will be a life-changing explosion of colors in the sky or a daybreak as fast as flipping a light switch. It is ultimately up to you if you are willing to roll the dice to see that picture perfect sunrise or not.
You can read more about getting tickets to see the sunrise at Borobudur here!
Crushed Expectations
While you may not be guaranteed a picture perfect sunrise, you will be able to enter the temple a whole 2 hours before the rest of the tourists (doors to the public open at 6). Come 6’oclock many visitors will not be able to get a moment’s peace to appreciate the elaborate carvings and craftsmanship put into the temple. Instead, hoards of tourists will be going elbow to elbow to climb to the summit of the temple to get that Instagram worthy selfie in front of the meditating stone buddhas. While you may be disappointed with the lack of a colorful sunrise, you will be able to find peace and quiet while wandering Borobudur with only a handful of other tourists.
When the gates finally do open, so do the many groups of tourists and school kids who arrive to tour the temple grounds. As a foreign traveler, especially those from outside of East Asia, be prepared to be approached several times to take selfies with local tourists. While the first several times it will be a novelty and full of laughter, it will eventually get tiring after having the hundredth camera shoved in your face. As a guest in someone else’s country, it is best to suck up your pride and pose for the photos, no matter how annoying it may get. This may be hard to do after waking up at 2 am to arrive in Borobudur, but plaster that smile on your face and prepare the peace sign for the many selifes you will have to take.
You can read more about general admission to Borobudur here!
The English Students
Other than your run of the mill tourist, there are many English students who are brought by their teachers to Borobudur for the sole purpose of conducting interviews with foreign tourists. A group of 3-4 school children with badges proudly worn on their chest will shyly shuffle up next to you with their notebook in hand. The kids will nervously ask you several questions such as “where you are from?” and “how do you like Indonesia?” before then speaking from a memorized speech introducing various parts of their culture.
The first couple of times it is a cute heartwarming experience, but the groups of children may become unceasing to the point where you have to break their hearts and refuse them. This is, of course, up to the tourist to decide, but one could easily spend their day at the base of the temple talking to school kids rather than actually exploring the temple itself.
The Farmers of Borobudur
After getting your fill of the ancient ruins of Borobudur, many tourists may venture out to some of the surrounding temples or simply head back to their hotels in Yogyakarta. In reality, the best places are usually found off of the beaten track, and Borobudur is no different. When driving around the base of the hill which the temple was built upon you will find endless fields of rice paddies spread across the countryside. Farmers can be seen busily tending to their crop, with only their large conical hat bobbing up and down amongst the large green stalks.
It is amazing that such a picturesque landscape with the stupa of Borobudur in the distance can be left largely overlooked by most tourists. While the beauty of the area is unnoticed, it is actually a blessing that these rice paddies are left in their natural state. This secret oasis, hidden in plain sight offers a more intimate view of Indonesian life. It is curious to see locals busily working the fields, living every day in the shadow of Borobudur.
You can find these rice fields off of Jl. Borobudur-Ngadiharjo.
