Putian Temple – Hsinchu 新竹普天宮
Half Abandoned Putian Temple
Everyone is looking to get off of the beaten path. Luckily, Hsinchu is already off the radar for most travelers in Taiwan. Other than the main sights such as the City God Temple and the East Gate, there is plenty of places around the city yet to be brought into the light. One of these places is Putian Temple. Although locally popular, this rundown temple will have you feeling like you are stepping into one of Taiwan’s largest abandoned theme parks.
In every sense of the word, Hsinchu’s Putian Temple (普天宮(大關公廟)) is bizarre. After a steep bike ride or hike up Gaofeng Road, you’ll find yourself staring into the eyes of a massive Guangong statue (關公). This is just the start of what makes Putian Gong so unique. Most of the campus is filled to the brim with statues. Not just statues of Buddhas and Daoist gods, but even copies of some of the world’s most iconic monuments. From the Egyptian Sphinx to the American Korean War Memorial, the entire park is packed full of random sculptures tossed randomly together.
Looking for more day trips in Hsinchu? Be sure to check out the Weekend Flower Market!
Getting to Putian Temple
Getting to Putian Gong makes for the perfect half-day trip from Hsinchu. With the ease of public bikes in the city, you can ride up to the top of Gaofeng Road (高峰路) with little trouble. There are some sections of the road that will have you walking your bike up the hill, but you won’t have to hoof it too long. It is just a 30-minute bike ride from the heart of Hsinchu city to the top of Putian Temple.
If you’re wanting to get up to the temple a little bit faster, there are direct buses that will take you right to the top of the hill. From Hsinchu Bus Station you can take bus number 71 for just 15 NT (0.50USD) to the temple. The trip will take roughly 40 minutes. They are many other buses that go to Gaofeng Village near the temple if you are looking to the to Putian Gong quicker.
Massive Lord Guanyu
The crown jewel and main attraction of Putian Temple is the colossal Guangong Statue staring over Hsinchu city. This 120-meter behemoth attracts both Daoist devotees and travelers looking for the obscure. Much like how in America you can find roadside attractions touting the world’s largest ball of string, Putian Tempe uses the same marketing tactic. Knowing that there is a massive Daoist god sitting atop a mountain is sure to bring in a trickle of curious tourists.
The huge statue is only just the beginning of the rabbit hole at this temple. Throughout the complex, tourists will discover vintage arcade-style games where you can put in your money and have your fortune told. It doesn’t stop there. Other than your future being told to you by a rusted robot, there are also whimsical interpretations of Daoist gods. The one that really takes the cake for the most absurd statue is the Guanyu Iron Man greeting visitors in the main courtyard.
Want to get a bite to eat? Why not visit this historic Izakaya in the heart of Hsinchu!
Incense and Souvineers
The temple being straddled by the god Guanyu is actually quite simple. You’ll find a slew of deities where worshipers are busy burning incense. Offerings are placed in front of the ornate statues scattered throughout the floor. But it is not the beaming faces of the gods that will greet you as you enter this sacred hall. It will actually be the gift shop. Selling everything from Putian Temple t-shirts to key chains, you’ll want to be sure to pick up some tacky knick-knacks before praying for your loved ones.
The entire temple complex actually stretches up to nine floors and offers views of the sea. Unfortunately, the stairs that lead to the upper levels are cluttered with boxes and other items for storage. One can only assume that the top of Guanyu is no longer open to the public. Considering the condition of the statue, the structure may no longer be fit for tourists to climb to its observation deck.
Putian Temple is not the only Guanyu temple in Hsinchu. Be sure to also visit the Guandi Temple!
Folk Culture Museum
Walking down the stairs from the main courtyard, you’ll find yourself on a steep stone pathed flanked by Buddhist statues covered in weeds. On you’re left you’ll discover the entrance to the Folk Culture and Cultural Relics Museum. This exhibition hall houses two floors of wooden dioramas of traditional Chinese scenes, wax sculptures, jade antiques, and porcelain vases. The collection is nothing short of massive, but one can not help but question the authenticity of such treasures.
This impressive collection of relics and the entirety of Putian Temple was built by a man named Zheng Zaicuan (鄭再傳). Born in 1924, Mr. Zheng grew up in an intellectual family. It is no surprise that later in life he served both Hsinchu city and county as a chairman. After a visit to Kaohsiung, Zheng was inspired to build a religious center for the citizens of Hsinchu. Construction began in 1967 and finally finished in 1975.
Start your morning off right with a coffee at Dr. Li Kecheng traditional house in Hsinchu!
Left to the Weeds
Putian Temple stands on the edge of being considered “dark tourism”. Although you’ll find many worshipers and tourists on the upper levels of the complex, once you take the stone steps down the edge of the hill, you can’t help but get an uneasy feeling. This is not only due to the hundreds of cold eyes staring at you from the bushes, but much of the park has been overrun with weeds and vines.
Ghosts seem to wander many of the paths and buildings in Putian Gong. With shattered ceramics and abandoned refreshment stands, you can nearly imagine what this temple may have looked like in its heyday. Children laughing with an ice cream in hand, families gazing out over the Hsinchu skyline, and couples walking arm and arm through the museum. Unfortunately, these images are left only to the imagination. Today, much of Putian Temple looks like it is more out of a scene from a horror film than a family-friendly park.
Hsinchu is full of history! Be sure to check out Hsinchu Prison Martial Arts Hall!
Ruins and Relics
Despite the bleak impression you may have of Putian Temple, it is still worth the trip. It doesn’t matter if you are looking for Taiwanese culture or more off-the-beaten-path travel in Hsinchu, you’ll find both at this temple. The trip isn’t just about visiting the big Guangong statue. The bike ride up the hill and to its peak is the real adventure. After getting your exercise in by climbing up to the top of the temple, nothing really compares with having a cold drink and staring up at the royal red face of Lord Guanyu.
Putian Temple is just one of the many sights which can be found around Gaofeng. The famous Qingcao Lake, Baoshan Dam, and several other temples are all found on the way to and from the Guanyu statue. Making for the perfect day trip in Hsinchu, traveling to Putian Temple is the perfect way to get out of the city and discover and different side of Taiwan.
You can find a full list of things to do in Hsinchu here!
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