On The Top Of The World In Murghab Tajikistan
Opening the Doors to the Roof of the World
The Pamir Highway, also known as the M41 Highway, is a major bucket list item for those looking to travel into the unknown. Known as the rooftop of the world, this stretch of road cuts through some of the most unforgiving terrains on the planet. The brown and grey hues of the mountains in contrast with the rich blue skies have been dazzling travelers for over a century.
In recent years, Central Asia has begun to open up to foreign tourists. Therefore the roads leading into the Pamir Mountains are often frequented by shared taxis and hired jeeps. Many decide to rush from the Kyrgyzstan border, with their noses pressed to the glass as the rattle back in forth in their jeeps. Making their way to the Wakahan Corridor in the South. Other travelers take it slow. Exploring every single village and camp which is nestled into the earth-colored rock of the Pamir Mountains.
No matter if you decide to leave no rock unturned or are wanting to head straight to the beauty of the Wakahan Corridor, you are sure to find yourself stopping in the village of Murghab.
Want to read my complete guide to the Pamir Highway? You can find it here!
Getting to the Heart of the Pamir Mountains
While there is a road that offshoots the Pamir Highway and leads to the border with China, most travelers find themselves traveling from either Osh in the north or Khorog in the south when visiting the Pamir Mountains. No matter which direction you are coming from, you are sure to be spending the night in the world-famous rest-stop of Murghab.
The ride from Khorog to Murghab is quite straight forward. You will want to be sure to arrive at the bus stand early if you are hoping to catch a shared taxi. Even at 10 am, you will have a hard time filling up a taxi with passengers and may be forced to wait hours before you finally set off to Murghab. The price of a shared taxi from Khorog to Murghab costs around 150 somonis (16 USD) and takes about 8 hours.
If you happen to be coming from Kyrgyzstan in the north, a shared taxi from Osh to Murghab will cost about 200 somonis (20 USD) and take anywhere from 10-12 hours. When compared with the road south of Murghab, the stretch of highway leading from Kyrgyzstan to the heart of the Pamir Mountains is absolutely breathtaking. No matter if you decide to splurge on a private car or not, shared taxis are even known to stop at destinations such as Karakul to marvel at the beauty of the mountains.
Thinking about getting a visa to Afghanistan? You can read on how to apply in Khorog here!
Catching Your Breath At The Rest-stop
After hours of being confined to a crowded stinking jeep or compact car, don’t expect to find luxury in Murghab. This community located in the dead center of the Pamir Mountains is less of a city and more of a camp which has rooted its poles deep into the earth of the valley.
The whole idea behind Murghab’s creation was to be a rest stop for the Russians traveling along the Pamir Highway. While under Soviet rule Murghab went by the name of Pamirsky Post and was considered the most advanced military outpost in all of Central Asia. From the beginning, Murghab was never meant to be a permanent settlement, but as the years went by, this camp transformed itself into an oasis in the heart of the Pamir Mountains.
Despite Murghab being known as the rest-stop of the Pamir Highway, electricity is scarce and do not expect to find any internet connections. Murghab is a town literally built at the edge of existence and a refuge for those venturing out into the Pamir Mountains.
Want to know how to cross the border from Tajikistan to Afghanistan? You can find my complete article here!
Exploring Murghab
After a nearly 10-hour car ride, you will be itching to stretch your legs in Murghab. While this may be tempting, it is vital that you take it slow when exploring the dusty streets and shipping container markets. At 3,600 meters above sea level (11,860 feet), you have jumped up a lot from the valley of Khorog or plains of Osh. Merely walking around the village is more than enough to feel as if icicles are piercing your lungs.
The entire village of Murghab is nestled to one side of the valley. The simple concrete and mud houses can easily be explored in a day or two. For shared taxis out of Murghab, you will have to head to the bazaar. Consisting of shops built into shopping containers, this market is incredibly simple, but serves as the lifeline for all people living in Murghab. It is here where most people meet to stock up on groceries, buy handicrafts, and find taxis taking you further along the Pamir Highway.
On the outskirts of Murghab is a large expanse of marshland where Kyrgyz shepherds take their flocks to graze. You can also find locals bringing their clothes out to the river to catch up on laundry. A single humble mosque stands in the center of the grasslands with two unassuming minarets on either side. After being drawn in by the obvious allure of the mosque, you will find yourself wandering out into the plains only to turn around and ask yourself, “what next?”
Traveling from China? Read on how to cross the border from Kashgar to Sary Tash here!
The Pit-stop On The Pamirs
Murghab is a quaint village tucked right into the heart of the Pamir Mountains. This simple centuries-old camp only continues to hang off of travelers lips as more backpackers continue to venture into the Pamir Mountains. Year after year, the roads leading into the Pamir Mountains are being blazed by adventurous travelers. In turn, the town of Murghab will grow from an unassuming pit-stop into a full-fledged tourist hub.
Despite the influx of travelers, the extreme conditions of both the road and weather leave Murghab as a destination only for the most seasoned backpackers. Even as visa requirements continue to ease in Central Asia, it will still be decades before you see the first tourist bus brave the treacherous Pamir Highway. For now, Murghab is a refuge for those adventurers looking to push the limits and travel to the edge of the world.
