On the Front Lines in Kinmen
Taking the Ferry to the Republic of China
As relations have warmed between The Communist Peoples Republic and the Democratic Republic of China, both shores have gradually allowed their people to cross the Taiwan Strait for business and tourism. Approxomently 10km from the Mainland Chinese town of Xiamen (厦门), Kinmen Island (金门) stood as a snake at the lion’s den, ready to strike if ever disturbed.
It wasn’t until the mid-90s when the Taiwanese government decided to open this military fortress to the public, allowing its tourism industry to flourish. Nearly ten years later both sides of the strait began to allow ferry services to make the journey between the two tense neighbors. Many businessmen have made Kinmen their home, due to the cheap cost of tickets between Kinmen and Xiamen. As more and more countries break their diplomatic ties with Taiwan, one can only speculate that air travel to this East Asian island will only continue to be difficult. As it is, flights from Mainland China to Taiwan cost an astronomical price. The cheapest alternative to air travel is, of course, crossing the sea dividing these two bitter siblings.
From the Three Links Terminal (小三通）in Xiamen you can board the ferry to neighboring Kinmen. Even during peak seasons, seats are still available, although you may need to wait on standby. It is recommended to exchange money on the Taiwanese side of the strait due to the better rates. After purchasing your ticket for 140RMB/650NT (20USD) and crossing through immigration, it is a mere 30-minute ride to the opposite shore. Visas are needed for the PRC, make sure you have all proper paperwork completed before purchasing a ticket.
More information about traveling the Taiwan Strait can be found here!
A Rogue State
Taiwan and Mainland China are one people divided by both the sea and ideological differences. Both people share the same culture, language, and history. Beginning in 1927 to 1937 and again from 1937-1945 the Chinese Civil War ravaged the country and claimed up to 6 million souls. Defeated, the Kuomintang retreated to the island of Taiwan in a last ditch effort to regroup their forces against the victorious Red Army. Since then, the two political parties have been a deadlock, with neither army gaining any further territory. The closest Kuomintang controlled land to Mainland China is the small island of Kinmen, which has been bolstered with a massive military presence and elaborate fortifications.
Even after the closed city opened up to the world, the soldiers stationed on the island are constantly on high alert. Many of the sites on the itinerary for tourists when visiting this tropical paradise are even closely related to its war-torn past. Attractions such as the Zhaishan tunnels, August 23erd Artillery Battle Museum, and the Guningtou Battle Museum bring in loads of tour groups from both Taiwan and the Mainland. Even intense military drills are known to attract crowds of picture-snapping tourists.
You can read more about the island on the front lines here!
Ancient Villages
Kinmen is so much more than just military patrols and hillside bunkers, this island has a rich history and culture stretching back hundreds of years. The various settlements spread throughout Kinmen gives one a glimpse of what life was like pre-urbanization. Many of these villages preserve the original architecture of their houses and temples, thus making each small town a living museum of a bygone era. Life itself moves slowly in these small hamlets. Most young people leave the island to study in sprawling cities like Taipei or Kaohsiung, leaving these villages into nothing more than large retirement homes. Some of the houses and temples have fallen into disrepair. Although it is interesting to explore eerie abandoned buildings, it is a shame to see such beautiful cultural relics turn to ruin. Fortunately, efforts to turn Kinmen into a thriving tourist destination has been succeeding. Buses daily shuttle families, college students, and backpackers to cultural villages such as Shanhou, Qionglin, and Shuitou, Cultural Villages.
Kinmen also has hop on hop off buses which go throughout the island, read more here!
Dragons and Temples
No matter how much a government may try to purge religion, spirituality remains a constant source of comfort and inspiration for millions of people throughout the world. For those first traveling to Taiwan from the Mainland Chinese city of Xiamen, Kinmen will give you your first taste of true Fujianese architecture. These elaborate, colorful structures are adorned with brightly painted dragons, dramatic statues, and detailed carvings. Compared to any other Taoist or Buddhist temples in the Far East, Taiwan is one of the few places where the religion truly comes to life. What makes Taoism, in particular, the most unique religion in Han dominated regions is that for centuries the religion has absorbed and preserved traditional folk religions of ancient China. Many of the practices seen today are all paying reverence to the same mystical spirits and gods worshiped in rural villages for generations. Like the rest of Taiwan, Kinmen has its fair share of temples such as Haiyin Temple, Huguo Temple, and Lukang Temple. When traveling it is not so much about the temples that you set out to see, but rather those which you stumble upon by chance when exploring a new city.
To read more about Taiwanese Taoism click here! When in Kinmen be sure not to miss the Wudao City God Parade!
Downtown Kinmen
The predominately rural island of Kinmen has two urban centers, one in the town of Jincheng and the other at Jinhu. Calling these towns urban is very much an overstatement. The heart and soul of these towns are embodied in their small town charm. Unlike their Mainland brothers who are more inclined to tear down any remnants of the past and replace them with modern skyscrapers, the Taiwanese cherish their roots that emits a nostalgic feeling. This feeling is felt most intensely when walking down the street of Houpu which serves as a time capsule transporting tourists back to the glory days of the Kuomintang. Although now part of an art district, one can still imagine officers in smart uniforms carrying orders to the nearby political offices and locals riding their bicycles past the classic brick architecture.
You can read more about Houpu here!
War on the Beaches
The pristine white sand beaches of Kinmen are enough to rival the most beautiful seaside destinations in Hawaii or Thailand. The major difference that separates Kinmen and other tropical getaways is the fact that its alluring coastline is jam-packed with abandoned military outposts and anti-landing spikes. For lovers of abandoned places and dark tourism, Kinmen is a goldmine of fortresses and bunkers all waiting to be explored. Amongst these ruins, propaganda posters, radars, even tanks can be found left to rot in the sand. Although the most popular destination is at Mashan Observation Post, it is hard to escape the military installations which have all be built on the coast. Kinmen is slowly trying to cast off its rather dark past by becoming a top grade beach resort, but it will take some time to clear out the barricades and defuse the landmines to finally allow anxious beachgoers to finally go take a dip.
An Island Lined With Beaches, Packed With Propaganda
Kinmen is a complicated miraculously island which checks the list for appealing to all different types of travelers. No matter if it is dark tourism, military history, ancient cultures, religion, hiking, or even just laying on the beach, Kinmen truly has something to offer everyone. It may be a little alarming for some to see such a large military presence while out on holiday, but over the years the Taiwanese have scaled back the degree to which they interfere with civilian’s everyday lives. Today most bases are concentrated in dense forests and high mountain tops, well out of sight for most tourists. Even though the island’s military bases have been replaced with tourist resorts, that does not mean that tensions are not as high as ever. To this day the PRC has intimidated countries into severing their diplomatic ties with Taiwan and has even indicated its willingness to retake this rouge province by any means necessary. Until the two sides of the strait decide to once again let the bullets and bombs fly, lay out a towel, sip on a pina colada, and watch another perfect sunset on the island paradise of Kinmen.
