Lalish Temple: Holiest Site of the Yazidis

How to get to Lalish Temple

Lalish is a small remote village located in the mountainous regions of Northern Iraq. It is regarded as the holiest site for the Yazidi people. Despite its importance, there are no direct routes there. From the Erbil International Terminal there are only shared taxis going to Duhok. I managed to secure a seat for 15,000 dinar (12 USD), taking me as close as possible to the temple without leaving the highway.

After a 2 hour long journey, I was dropped off near Shekan. Several drivers were huddled under a makeshift taxi stand by the side of the road. I managed to hire one of the drivers to take me to Lalish, Saint Matthews Monastery, and Akre for the price of 100 USD (I was later cheated by this same driver). If one were only to go to Lalish one-way, the price should not be more than 10,000 dinars, driving a mere 17 km.

Who are the Yazidis?

From an outsiders perspective, the Yazidi are known as devil worshipers, but this could not be farther from the truth. They are monotheists who absorbed traditions from Christianity, Islam, Judaism, and Zoroastrianism. According to the Yazidis, the one god left the world under the watch by seven angels. Of these angels, Melek Taus (The Peacock Angel) is the central figure. Due to years of persecution, most recently by the hands of Isis in Sinjar, the Yazidi population is largely spread out. The largest population, however, is found in Northern Iraq, where 650,000 Yazidis call home.

Entrance to Lalish Temple

The population of the small village has swelled over the years, taking in many Yazidi refugees fleeing Isis. After passing many of the small houses in the valley, we pulled up to the pilgrimage site. Before even entering the temple grounds, I had to take off my shoes and leave them in the taxi.

The entire mountainside is considered holy by the Yazidis. Many men are sitting around lazily, praying with their beads and chatting. When first stepping into the temple, be sure to step over the threshold or you will be scolded by the ever-watchful locals. As I made my way to the catacombs, a teenage boy approached me and acted as my guide for the inside of the temple.

Tombs and Jars of Oil

The Lalish Temple is famous because it is the burial site of Sheikh Adi Ibn Musafir, who was considered an avatar of the Peacock Angel. As we walked down deeper into the temple, my guide showed me the sites of several caskets, all draped in elegant silk. The tomb of Adi Ibn Musafir is dug deeper into the earth, and outsiders are not allowed to visit. The highlight of the temple is a large cavern lined with jars full of oil.

When first stepping foot into this cave your feet will feel the smoothness of the oil seeping through the stones on the floor. Here pilgrims take an oil-soaked blanket and throw it onto a ledge with their eyes closed. Each person is given three chances if they manage to toss the rag on the ledge each time it is said that they will have good luck.

Pilgrimage to Lalish

It is a requirement for once in every Yazidi’s lifetime to make a 6-day pilgrimage to Lalish. Each pilgrim must pay their respects to the pyramid shaped tombs of Yazidi saints and leaders. For travelers, this place would be the closest one could get to witnessing true Yazidi culture. The only other site would be Sinjar, but due to the devastation committed by Isis, this region is still unsafe.

Lalish is definitely worth a trip, but one could only spend up to two hours here wandering the temple and chatting with locals. I would recommend pairing this destination with the nearby old city of Akre. No matter how small the temple is Lalish, the holiest site for the Yazidis is definitely worth a visit.

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