Lahore’s Bibi Pak Daman Shrine

Sufi Shrines in Lahore

History will only take you so far into uncovering the soul of a city such as Lahore. The age-old mosques and buildings built during the colonial period will give you a glimpse of what was, but will not show you the enduring culture which has been passed down through the generations. Sufi tombs such as the Bibi Pak Daman Mausoleum is so much more than a crumbling shrine often written about in local history books. It is a place where you can see classical mysticism and the traditions of the Pakistani people come to life.

Cities are simply comprised of lifeless concrete buildings. The rows of houses, winding alleyways, wide highways, and ornate mosques only become “Lahore” when people are present. The Badshahi Mosque may be a snapshot of the city’s past but only stands as a reminder of the Lahore that once was. Bibi Pak Daman is an active organ keeping the soul of Lahore alike. Daily devotees flock to this Sufi Darbar to pay respects to the bygone saints in the form of praying, chanting, singing, and throwing flower petals on his grave.

Want to read more about some of the best Sufi shrines in Lahore? Be sure to check out Shah Jamal Darbar!

Out of the Walled City

One of the most exciting things to do in Lahore is to simply wander the endless labyrinth of alleyways that cut through the Walled City. The Bibi Pak Daman Darbar, however, is located away from the ceaseless onslaught of crowds from the old city in a neighborhood south of the Lahore Train Station known as Muhammad Nagar. What may seem like a quiet residential area from the highway slowly works its way up to being one of Lahore’s most lively districts. As you continue to make your way deeper into the densely populated block, the sleepy city streets will begin to be lined with shopkeepers selling every kind of ware imaginable.

With the Bib Pak Daman Shrine as its nucleus, the bazaar encircles the holy site as if it were the clouds churning around the eye of a storm. In the bazaar you will find many of the same shops that you can see in any of the numerous markets spread throughout Lahore. What makes this bazaar unique is the many Sufi trinket shops selling prayer flags and amulets. One of the most recognizable symbols is the hamsa or the Eye of Fatima. With its three extended fingers and two thumbs, this amulet can be found throughout the world with countless interpretations. Along with the stalls selling trinkets, you will also come across many shops selling flower petals and flags used to commemorate the death of a saint.

If you are really wanting to experience Sufism be sure to travel to Multan, the City of Saints!

People Watching

More than any other place in Lahore Bibi Pak Daman is one of the best places to people-watch in the entire city. With people of all walks of life strolling back and forth from the shrine nestled into the heart of the community, you will find that this spiritual center attracts Muslims from all throughout Punjab. While mosques only have life within its corridors during prayer times or if there is a madrasa present, Sufi shrines are a place where Allah is to be praised with song and respects are given to the Muslim teachers of the past.

When looking over the crowd you will see more women than elsewhere in the city. With their headscarves and hijabs, its will seem as if Muslim women feel more comfortable wandering the streets of a religious shrine such as Bibi Pak Daman. You will also notice men adopting less common sunnah traditions such as growing their hair out long and even wearing eyeliner. Other than imitating the Prophet Muhammed, you will also see the influence of Zoroastrianism, Hinduism, and other ancient religions living on through modern Sufi practices.

When you start getting hungry you will want to be sure to head to Lahore’s Old Anarkali Food Street!

Attacks on Sufism

Even though that Sufi shrines are a place of peace and worship, they have been targeted by extremist groups throughout Pakistan for decades. Due to Sufism absorbing many traditions and practices coming from throughout the world and across cultures, many orthodox sects of Islam consider their rituals to be pagan in nature. With the rise of extremism, the Taliban, and the Islamic State, Sufi shrines have often been attacked by suicide bombers and other means of terrorism.

Like many of the other Sufi darbars throughout Lahore and the rest of Pakistan, the entrance to the grounds is guarded by police officers armed to the teeth with semi-automatic rifles. The lines of barbed wire take away from the religious and spiritual aspects of the shrine. Nearly all of the Sufi mausoleums in Lahore will not allow you to take your DSLR cameras within the premises. While phone cameras are acceptable, you will either have to plan beforehand and leave your camera at your hotel or be prepared to leave your equipment with the guards at the gates of the tomb.

The one tomb that inspired the darbar culture in Pakistan in Uch Sharif! Read more on this famous mausoleum here!

Bibi Pak Daman

What makes Bibi Pak Daman so incredibly special in the realm of Islam is the fact that it is the resting place of 6 women. Hazrat Ruqayyah is one of the six women whose lineage can actually be traced back to that of the Prophet Muhammed. The name Bibi Pak Daman translates to “Lady of Purity”, which signifies the height of the esteem and reverence the community hold for these women.

Following the siege of Karbala, the six women, along with Hazrat Ruqayyah, fled Iraq and found refuge in the then Hindu majority city of Lahore. In Lahore, they began to proselytize and engage in missionary work in the city. Led by Ruqayyah, the women continued to preach and eventually attracted the attention of the local Raj. The only person that came between the king and arresting the women the raj’s son who accepted Islam. Ruqayyah was able to continue her missionary work for sometime before yet another warrant for her arrest was put forth. Along with the other women, they prayed to Allah for rescue in a garden. Their prayers were answered in the form of the ground opening-up and burying them.

This is only one of the legends surrounding the Bibi Pak Daman Darbar. No matter what myth you may believe, there is a certain energy that can be found within the walls of the shrine that has been known to cure illnesses and conjure miracles.

While in Islamabad, you won’t want to miss out on visiting the oldest mosque in the city! Read more about Markazi Jamia Masjid here!

The Spiritual Side of Islam

No matter how many Muslim countries you may have traveled to, there is always a noticeable distance between men and women in society. Due to the concept of purdah, separation of men and women in public, its is difficult to experience all aspects of a culture. The history of a people can not be written by men alone. When traveling to Pakistan, a traveler will want to interact and hear about all parts of local life, not just what it is like to walk in the shoes of a privileged man.

Although it may sound strange for some, Bibi Pak Daman is a place where you will see just as many women as you would men. Being the site of the final burying place of several notable women in Islam, many families and women flock to this darbar to mourn and pray for these saints. Of course, it is important to remain respectful and maintain your distance from devotees. But you will be able to witness a side of Islam not commonly shown to the outside world: Muslim women freely and openly practicing their faith. While there are separate sides of the shrine for men and women, Bibi Pak Daman is one of the few places where you will see the crowds on the women’s section dwarf the men’s.

The chanting, singing, and rituals that take place within Bibi Pak Daman breathe life into the ancient traditions of Pakistan that have survived centuries. While Sufism still has outside forces who are intent in extinguishing its flame, the light burns bright at Bibi Pak Daman.