Is Jiufen (九份) Worth Visiting?

A Day Trip From Taipei to Jiufen

One of the things about Taiwan that makes it perfect for travel is that literally, every corner of this small island is teeming with culture and history. Basing yourself out of Taipei, you will find plenty of temples to visit, night markets to wander through, and mountains to hike. Once you cover most of the major sights in the capital, it is quite easy to get a change of scenery by taking a day trip out of the city. For locals and foreign tourists alike, a day trip to Jiufen (j九份) is by far one of the most popular.

The first question you are sure to ask yourself is, “how do I get to Jiufen?”, with both buses and trains daily carting tourists to the whimsical hillside “village” getting there is much easier than you’d think. The most straightforward way to get to Jiufen from Taipei is by taking bus 1062 from MRT Zhongxiao Fuxing Station (忠孝復興) for 90 NT (3 USD). The trip from Taipei to Jiufen takes roughly one hour.

You will also find bus 1061 at the same stop, but this service doesn’t actually take you directly to Jiufen, but rather to the nearby city of Ruifang (瑞芳). To get to Jiufen from Ruifang simply go to the Local Residents Plaza (區民廣場) bus stop and take buses 825, 827, or 788 for 15 NT (0.50 USD). From Ruifang, Jiufen is only 15 minutes away.

Thinking about spending a few more days in Taipei? Read my review on Taiwan’s capital here!

Taiwan’s Spirited Away Village

Many people who make the trek outside of Taipei to the hillside village of Jiufen are under the impression that they will be walking into a scene of a famous Hayao Miyazaki movie. As much as the steep narrow alleyways may resemble the bathhouses of Spirited Away, it is a mere coincidence rather than a source of inspiration. You can also find a similar style of architecture at Chongqing’s Hongyadong (洪崖洞).

Although you will not be reliving your favorite anime films at Jiufen, this centuries-old mining town is not short of boutique cafes and a whimsical atmosphere. While it may be hard to pay attention to detail while climbing up the steps, elbow to elbow with selfie-stick swinging tourists. You can find ghastly faces and outlandish imagery hidden in the architecture of the surrounding teahouses and homestays.

Before traveling to Jiufen, spend a day or two exploring the nearby town of Ruifang!

What To Do In Jiufen

Many of the travelers who find themselves in Jiufen won’t be able to tear themselves away from Old Street. It is not because there is particularly a lot to see and do in the heart of Jiufen that keeps tourists wandering its alleyways. But it is the quest to uncover that magical essence that has been captured in the photographs that keep visitors aimlessly meandering down the streets.

If you are in Jiufen on a day trip from Taipei, it will be next to impossible to discover the true spirit of this eccentric street. With rows of overprices souvenir shops and street food, you won’t find much that you couldn’t experience in Taipei. The only difference being that you have moody lanterns throwing red light against the walls. In many ways, Jiufen is just another tourist trap. Only if you manage to stay late enough for the crowds to die down can you start to come across the ghosts of Jiufen.

Wanting more of a bike holiday in Taiwan? Read about cycling in Chishang here!

Escaping The Tourist Trap

The “historic” village of Jiufin is confined to one face of a small hill. While many people are content droning together like a swarm of bees up and down the alleyways, it is not too hard to escape the crowds and find some much-needed seclusion away from the knick-knack shops and street food. The entire region around Jiufen is lined with hikes taking you up to the hills and secluded temples.

Although not considered off of the beaten path, Chuen Ji Hall (勸濟堂), this Taoist temple stands out from the surrounding green forests and mountains with its massive golden statue of Guan Yu. Seated like the god Zeus on an enormous throne, this deity’s strong brow and wispy beard practically beckon you to come closer and explore this extravagant temple.

If you are looking for more extravagant temples, be sure to check out the Fo Guang Shan Monastery!

Hiking To Jinguashi Shinto Shrine (黄金神社)

You may not come across and spirits floating through the streets in Jiufen, but halfway up the mountain from Jinguashi you will stumble upon a shrine which is sure to give you goosebumps. Just above the Gold Ecological Park and museum, you will begin to leave the noise to the city behind and be immersed in the eerie essence which floods the entire mountainside. Greeted by cold stone toriis and lanterns, you will come across the ruins of a Shinto shrine.

When Taiwan was under Japanese rule, Jiufen became well-known as the most profitable mining town in all of Asia. The mining company which oversaw the operations in Jiufen erected this temple for its workers. But as soon as the Japanese lost WWII and were forced out of Taiwan, this shrine was looted and burnt to the ground. All that remains is a few pillars, two stone gates, and 4 lanterns that greet you to the graveyard of spirits.

Looking for something more off the beaten path? Be sure to explore the abandoned UFO village of Wanli!

Is Jiufen Worth Visiting?

A simple day trip from Taipei to Jiufen will not do this village justice. Although an hour from the capital to this touristy hillside town may not sound like very long, you will spend a lot of your time plowing throw the hoards of people packed into the old streets of Jiufen like a pack of sardines. While this tourist hotspot has an undeniable beauty, you would have to wait for the crowds to thin in order to begin to enjoy the lantern-lit alleyways and the intricate artsy details hidden behind every corner.

Outside the immediate confines of Jiufen, you will find hundreds of hidden Buddhist and Taoist temples hidden in the mountainside, miles of hiking trails, and small villages free from all the crowds and annoyances of the tourist streets. Jiufen has a certain energy that gets drowned out with the tour groups and selfie snappers. To make the trip to Jiufen truly worth your while, you will need to wait for the noise to die down and for the light of the lanterns to cut through the darkness of the Old Street.