Hsinchu Guandi Temple 新竹關帝廟

Finding Guandi Temple

There is no doubt that Chenghuang Temple is the heart of Hsinchu. However, the Guandi Temple is definitely an extension of what makes this cultural center so special. If this was a concert, the City God Temple would be the headliner and Guandi Temple would be the opening act. Just a stone’s throw away from the more famous temple and a long walk through the labyrinth of Zhongyang Market, you’ll find yourself emerging at this smaller but just as special place of worship.

Located on the corner of Wenchang Road (文昌街) and Nanmen Street (南門街), Guandi Miao is flanked by trendy shops and crumbling buildings. When exploring the area around the temple, you’re bound to come across many youthful-looking stores that will make you feel as if nearly window shopping is out of your price range. There are also several hipster coffee shops and bakeries that have found a home on the first floor of many of these old buildings.

Be sure not to miss the main temple in Hsinchu, the City God Temple! You can read more here!

Entering Guandi Temple

On most days, you won’t have to worry about pushing your way throw crowds of worshippers to visit Guandi Miao. The street in front of the temple is hard to miss. Even if you find yourself out of eyesight of the temple. The large arch straddling the road is more than enough of a landmark to know where to go. Surrounding the outside of the temple, you’ll find several storefronts. Selling everything from clothing to religious trinkets, it’s hard to see what these businesses actually have to do with the temple itself.

After passing through the main gate, you’ll find the temple on your right and a concrete wall on your left painted with traditional East Asian imagery. The space directly in front of the Guandi Temple often has at least one row of motorbikes parked in front of it. Although this takes away a little from the overall aesthetic, you can still get some beautiful pictures from the outside.

Looking for more history in Hsinchu? Why not get a coffee at Dr. Le Kecheng’s traditional home?

History of Guandi Temple

Although small in size, Hsinchu’s Guandi Miao has been through its fair share of history. Originally built in 1777, Guandi Temple was located within the city walls of Hsinchu, just inside the South Gate. Throughout its history, it has seen many facelifts and has even had to be rebuilt from the ground up.

During the Japanese occupation, the temple initially served as a Kenteipai Station (Military Police Station/憲兵隊). It was finally re-established as a temple in 1898. Following the war, the alleyway leading directly from the main entrance used to be a popular brothel in Hsinchu. The owner of the temple, Jiang Yanshui (江雲水) later purchased the land and turned it into a library.

If you’re wanting to see Daoism come alive, you won’t want to miss Beigang’s Mazu Temple Fair!

Who is Guan Gong?

Guangong (關公) is a diety with quite a resume. Born as Guanyu (關羽), this mortal turned god rose to fame as being a legendary general under the flag of Liubei (劉備) during the Three Kingdoms period. The stories of his exploits grew into myths and were even raised to the level of some of the most powerful gods at the time.

Today, Guanyu is one of the most prayed to gods in all of Daoism. Understandably, he is first and foremost known as the god of war, but this is just one of the disciplines that he presides over. Guangong also oversees wealth and success. Therefore, businessmen, mobsters, and even policemen will often light incense for the guidance of Guangong.

Within Hshinchu’s Guandi Temple, you’ll often find people bowing or standing at attention with their incense in hand. You’re free to roam the temple as you wish, but with any religious center, be sure to show respect. If you ever feel like there is something you shouldn’t be doing, it is best to err on the side of caution.

While in Taiwan, you can not leave without first visiting Jiufen. You can read more about this unique town here!

Hsinchu’s Jianguo Park 建國公園

While visiting Guandi Temple, it is inevitable that you will pass by Jianguo Park. Also known as Three Corners Park ( 三角公園), this shaded area looks quite inviting on a scorching hot summer day. The only thing that may deter you from plopping yourself on a bench to catch a breather is the number of drunk people the park seems to attract.

Using many of the trees as their own personal toilet, Hsinchu’s Jianguo Park attracts some interesting characters. Although many of the people who frequent the park are perfectly harmless, it is still important to know how to deal with people who may or may not know how to respect boundaries. That being said, you may also be invited to sit in on one of the daily checker games the residents often play. Treated as one of the group, you can watch the old-timers go head to head with the drunkards. Spirits are always high, language is always crude, and life moves more slowly in Jianguo Park.

Want to see the Buddhist side of Taiwan? Why not head down to Kaohsiung and visit Foguangshan Monastery?

Visiting Hsinchu’s Guandi Temple

Now the question must be asked, “Is Hsinchu’s Guandi Temple worth visiting?” First, it is important to note that while these temples may not be spectacular from an outside tourists perspective, they serve a very important function for local Daoists. Each god within Daoism blesses and looks after different aspects of life. Depending on where you need guidance or what problems you encounter, you’d pray to a different god at a different temple. In this way, depending on your current situation, Guandi Temple can be just as much, if not more important than Chenghuang Temple.

If you are not a Daoist, this may mean very little. Regardless, Guandi Temple is located in the cultural heart of Hsinchu. Nearby, you will find many sprawling markets teeming with character. Along the way, you are bound to come across many temples similar to Guandi Miao. Traveling is searching for experiences. If you decided to skip over one place in your itinerary, who knows what experiences you may have missed out on.

You can find a full list of things to do in Hsinchu here!