Hsinchu City God Procession (新竹都城隍遶境賑孤)
Hsinchu Wakes Up
In the eyes of many tourists, Hsinchu is a city fast asleep. During Ghost Month (鬼月), however, the entire downtown shakes with the sound of drums and firecrackers. With Hsinchu’s Chenghuang Temple (新竹城隍廟) as its epicenter, devotees from around Taiwan arrive to take part in the City God Inspection of the city (都城隍爺遶境賑孤).
The City God procession consists of more than just the god himself. Towering generals dressed in elaborate clothing are paraded around the streets. Horns, dancers, and drums clear the way as the god makes his rounds through Hsinchu. As the highest-ranking City God Temple in all of Taiwan, gods from other cities make a point to visit Hsinchu to pay their respects.
During Ghost Festival, Hsinchu is home to one of the liveliest celebrations in the whole country. It’s not just the ghosts that are wandering the streets, but also the gods themselves!
Want to witness the release of all the ghosts? Read about how to watch the Ghost Gate open in Hsinchu here!
Planning for the City God Procession
The most important day of Zhongyuan Festival (中元城隍祭) in Hsinchu is on the 15th day of the 7th month according to the lunar calendar. Starting from early in the morning, the gods and generals of Hsinchu’s City God Temple start to awake and move to the sound of trumpets. By Longli Pond (龍鯉池), in front of the temple, a large elaborate stage is erected. At 8:00 in the morning, the City God and his six generals make their way to the platform.
From the stage, the City God will receive guests from all around Taiwan who come to pay respect to him. Intricate dances are performed at the steps of the viewing platform. Typically, the zhentou (陣頭) or troupes in the City God procession will perform first. At 1:00, to the sound of three cannons, the City God along with his entourage will take to the streets. The City God who patrols the streets is simply a different effigy of the same god who is seated on the stage.
Days before the temple fair, the son of the City God patrols the street. Read about the Hsinchu Night Patrol here!
Orphaned Ghosts
With his own lion dancers, drummers, and generals, the City God procession begins its inspection of Hsinchu. Since the Ghost Gates opened on the first day of Zhongyuan Month, lost spirits have been released onto the land of the living. Without families to pray to them, the spirits go from house to house to accept offerings from strangers. The tradition of pudu (普渡) is the act of offering gifts to these orphaned ghosts in order to help them move on from the underworld.
It is not only common people that have a duty to look after these “good brothers” (好兄弟) who are seeking a way out of hell. The purpose of the City God procession is for the facilitators of the underworld to keep an eye on the hungry ghosts and to help any orphaned spirits who may be lost along the way. Those who have committed suicide or who have died in mysterious ways are souls that are sure to be tormented. The City God inspects Hsinchu looking for these ghosts and helping them start on the path of salvation.
On the first day of Zhongyuan Festival, the people of Hsinchu are forgiven for their sins. Read about the procession here!
General Xie and General Fan
Temples that are in Hsinchu to pay their respects to the City God start lining up at around 12pm in front of the stage by Chenghuang Temple. There can be more than 75 different temples or troupes that anxiously wait for their turn to perform and visit the god. The best time to see the temple fair is at 4 pm. Many troupes will make a point to visit other temples in the city before heading to the main temple. One of the other major spots around Hsinchu to check out the troupes is in front of Chulian Temple (竹蓮寺).
Most of the temples that attend the City God inspection are City Gods from their own respective cities. Before the City God of Pindong or Zhunan can make their appearance, it is up to General Fan and General Xie (謝范將軍) to clear the way. Representing Yin and Yang, the two generals act as escorts to the underworld. Wherever the City God goes, you are sure to also come across these two dancing deities.
If you’re feeling a bit hungry, be sure to grab a bite at this historic Japanese izakaya in Hsinchu!
Troupes of the Temple Fair
The majority of temples that visit Hsinchu come from City God Temples from all over Taiwan. Many of these temples hire temple fair troupes to accompany them to pay their respects to the god. Other troupes, not affiliated with any temple, will also make an appearance in the parade. Other than General Fan and General Xie, you’ll also come across many other figures with a history deep-rooted in Taiwanese culture.
Other than maybe the pole dancers, the eight generals (ba jia jiang/ 八家將) are the most anticipated troupe. Representing the guardians of hell, these performers can not speak while taking the form of these deities. Much like the massive effigies paraded through the streets, these living incarnations of gods can even represent Generals Fan and Xie.
Some other temple fair performers to keep your eye open for are Beijing opera singers, acrobats, fire breathers, and even parade floats.
If you’re in Hsinchu on Saturday or Sunday, don’t forget to head over to Hsinchu’s weekend flower market!
Height of Ghost Festival
The day of the City God procession and the Hsinchu temple fair is the peak of Ghost Month. Throughout Taiwan, many offerings to ghosts and traditions also fall around the 15th of the 7th month. The days following Hsinchu literally blowing up with excitement will consist of the gods and generals of Chenghuang Temple slowly making their way back to their display cases. On the last day of the month, the gates close, thus returning all of the ghosts back to the underworld.
When compared with other temple fairs around Taiwan, the City God inspection of Hsinchu does not have as much variety. That does not mean, however, that you won’t be able to witness ba-jia-jiang and go-go girls. Zhongyuan Festival is a time when you can see all of the traditions and culture of Hsinchu put on full display. Although the ghosts have to depart at the end of the month, one can hope that Hsinchu will not also go back to sleep.
What are the top things to do in Hsinchu? You can find all the best places in Hsinchu here!
