Ghost Gate Opens at Hsinchu’s City God Temple 竹塹中元城隍祭

Ghost Month in Hsinchu

Ghost Month (鬼月) or Zhongyuan Festival (中元節) is a period of time in the Lunar Calendar when the Ghost Gate opens in Taiwan and spirits roam the country. With traditions rooted deep in Daoism and Buddhism, many local Taiwanese look upon this festival with a sense of uneasiness. Rather than the spirits being those of loved ones, many believers go to painstaking lengths to avoid and appease the wandering souls.

Hsinchu is one of the focal points for the Hungry Ghost Festival in Taiwan. As the Ghost Gate (鬼門) at the City God Temple opens, observers are quick to burn joss money to the deceased and layout offerings to the spirits. Marked with many taboos and regulations for the superstitious, many Taiwanese tread carefully during Zhongyuan Festival in order not to anger any of the many visiting ghosts.

Wanting a break from the ghosts? Keep your kind off the spirits while checking out a baseball game in Hsinchu!

Waiting Spirits

Other than Keelung, Hsinchu is one of the most important cities in all of Taiwan for Ghost Month. Hsinchu’s City God Temple or Chenghuang Temple is the highest ranking City God Temple on the whole island of Taiwan. The job of a City God is to act as a “police chief” or “magistrate”. The officers of the City God go out into the world to bring back spirits who can not be reincarnated until their appointed time. These spirits include those who have committed suicide, those with unsolved deaths, and ones whose families no longer pray to them.

On the last day of the 6th month, according to the lunar calendar, at 11 pm the Ghost Gate (Tiger Gate) will open at City God Temple. During Zhongyuan month, the gods allow these tormented spirits to temporarily leave the underworld to eat and wander the land of the living. Many believers don’t call the souls “ghosts” but will refer to them as “good brothers” (好兄弟).

If you’re looking for more to do while waiting for the Ghost Gate to open, be sure to check out the Hsinchu County Museum of Art!

Opening the Gates

Leading up to 11 pm and the start of Ghost Month, spectators will begin to crowd out in front of the left gate of Hsinchu’s City God Temple. Throughout the other months of the year, the Ghost Gate (Tiger Gate 虎門) is strictly closed, keeping all the spirits in the underworld. Be sure to not be standing directly in front of the gate when it is opened. It is said that those standing in the path of the ghosts will become terribly sick for weeks to come.

As Zhongyuan Festival comes closer, a priest (師公) of the temple will emerge and approach the Ghost Gate. Bearing a sword, whip, and other objects, he will begin the ritual of opening the gate and releasing the spirits. With horns blaring in the background, one can feel each nerve tingling in their body anticipating the coming of the “good brothers” from the underworld.

You can find even more history in Hsinchu at the Lingyin Temple by Green Grass Lake!

Escorts to Hell

Once the priest’s work is done, the escorts to the underworld (七爺八爺) are next to exit the temple and approach the Ghost Gate. Representing Yin and Yang, the black and white colored gods dance to the screeching horns and booming drums before pushing their way to the Ghost Gate. The black-faced escort will then spin and bang against the door until the gates fly open, releasing the spirits out into the world. Thus starting the Hungry Ghost Festival.

Immideintaly after the gates are open, the escorts are brought back into the temple. A small table is then placed in front of the Ghost Gate. With incense lit and a plate of inviting food served, this is the first of many offerings which are placed throughout Taiwan to feed the visiting souls. During the following month, people will both avoid and welcome the ghosts to the human world.

Another holiday you’ll want to be sure to check out is Dragon Boat Festival in Hsinchu!

Inspecting the City

The opening of the Ghost Gate in Hsinchu is just one of the many events during the Zhongyuan Festival. In the following days, Chenghuang Ye (the City God) along with Yinyang God (陰陽司) will begin the procedure of “removing the shackles” (脫枷消業) and helping deceased loved ones move on from the underworld. The City God of Hsinchu will also make his annual inspection of the town, ridding any bad spirits from his path.

For many places throughout Taiwan, Ghost Month is marked with simple offerings and taboos. In Hsinchu, spectators can witness many traditions and customs come to life. Even under the watchful eye of Chenghuang Ye and his officers, one can not help but feel a chill go down their spine during Hungry Ghost Month.

There is a whole lot to do in Hsinchu! You can find a list of the best things to see in Hsinchu here!