Crossing The Border: Traveling to Ishkashim Afghanistan

Driving Along the Wakhan Corridor

If you find yourself driving through the Wakhan Corridor on the Pamir Highway, it is obvious you already have a great sense of adventure! With your face pressed against the glass, most travelers will get the first glimpse of the enchanting country of Afghanistan.

Even though you are just one wrong move away from your jeep plunging headfirst into the Panj River, a splash of green farmland against the Mars-like mountains will have you completely captivated. Is it the sense of danger or the tales of war which shroud Afghanistan in such mystery?

Whatever the reason may be, you will soon find yourself researching the Tajik-Afghan Border Market to try and take a closer look at life in Afghanistan. That will not be enough, however, some of you will take the dive and find yourself experiencing the cross-border town of Ishkashim first hand.

Want more information on traveling the Pamir Highway? Check out this article here!

Dropped Off in Ishkashim Bazaar

A mix of both fear and excitement will be the feelings that first strike you after crossing the border from Tajikistan to Afghanistan. With rusting Soviet tanks there to greet you as you take that first step into Sultan Ishkashim, it is almost as if you are traveling to a place where time stands still.

As a tourist, the border guards will be sure to take care of you. From the minute you exit Afghan Immigration, you will find a tour guide ready to scoop you up and take you into Ishkashim Bazaar.

Regardless if you are wanting a tour guide or not, the local tour agency Wakhan Adventure, is there to make sure you get into town safely and have all the proper permits.

We got you convinced on traveling to Ishkashim yet? Check out how to get a visa in Khorog here!

Why Are You In Ishkashim?

When asked about your reasons for crossing the border into Afghanistan, you are sure to get widely different answers.

Some groups of travelers are simply passing through Ishkashim on the way to conquer the mountain peaks of Noshaq. Others continue up the Wakhan Corridor on the Afghan side of the border in search of Sarhad Lake and isolated Kyrgyz tribes. Most, however, find themselves in Ishkashim due to pure curiosity.

For photographers and journalists alike, there are so many myths to be busted and stories to be told within not only Ishkashim but the whole of Afghanistan. On the intersection of the two streets that make up Ishkashim Market, you will find ex-generals and soldiers of the mujahideen who fended off the Soviet invasion.

You almost have to stop yourself from bothering all of the shoppers and residents for photos and vain attempts to converse with them in English. The sad reality is without attempting to interact with some of the locals, these experiences will be lost with time.

Want more places off the beaten path in Central Asia? Check out traveling to Turkmenistan!

The Women of Ishkashim

Much like seeing your first geisha in Japan or your first sadhu in India, seeing a woman floating through the market donning a rich blue burka will leave you stupefied.

For outsiders, the long flowing blue veils are something truly off-worldly. It will take all of your strength and self-control not to stare at these women as they seemingly glide through Ishkashim Bazaar.

The lack of understanding and mystery behind the burka is something that any foreign traveler would want to explore. Unfortunately, due to cultural taboos and deep-rooted religious piety, the center of Iskashim Market is not the place to educate yourself on the ambiguity which lies behind the veil.

Where you can learn more about traditional Afghan culture is in the surrounding villages of Ishkashim, not the bustling bazaar.

Want to read more on the Afghan women of Ishkashim? Check out this article here!

The Villages of Ishkashim

For most people who are sunk deep into their sofas in the west, the only imagery they get of Afghanistan is that from CNN and the BBC. In many of their minds, Afghanistan is no more than a war-torn sandbox, devoid of any life or humanity.

Even if you never step foot in Afghanistan, traveling on the Pamir Highway presents a showcase of the true beauty tucked away across the border. Tall mountain peaks, trickling creeks, vibrant green fields, and idyllic villages are scattered across the Panj River.

While the view from your jeep window is truly mesmerizing, wandering along the streams and fields in person will have you thinking about setting up your own small cabin and calling Ishkashim home for good.

Planning on going to Kyrgyzstan? Don’t miss the chance to see Kok Boru in Osh!

Children’s Work

What will truly pull at your heartstrings while exploring the small villages around Ishkashim is the children who will either be absolutely bewildered at the sight of a foreign tourist, excited at the chance to practice their English or so scared they could be seen bolting as fast as they can into the closest home.

Many of the kids of Ishkashim are expected to do the same amount of work as the adults. The children can be found during any time of the day carrying animal feed, buckets of water, or tending to the fields. They will always make time, however, to exchange a quick smile and maybe a photograph or two.

It’s not just all work in Ishkashim either. Many of the Afghan children run around the villages and act as any kid would elsewhere in the world. The kids who do interact with you will be more than willing to have you partake in their games and may even try and convince their parents to have you over for dinner.

While in Central Asian don’t pass up the chance to visit Samarkand! Read more here!

Afghan Hospitality

The news of the presence of a foreign backpacker in Ishkashim is sure to spread quickly. Before you even enter a village you will find the clan’s leader walking up to greet you, hand extended.

Even though you may want to continue exploring the hills and forests around Ishkashim, the chance to enter an Afghan home and converse with the villagers is too special of an opportunity to pass up. The tea will begin to pour and snacks served. Unlike the bazaar, women can be found uncovered in the villages and even willing to strike up conversations with tourists.

While Ishkashim may be considered one of the safest places in all of Afghanistan for travelers, even locals will tell you to keep your guard up. You never know who to trust or who will pass on information to the Taliban on the arrival of a foreign tourist.

Most of the households in Ishkashim, however, have ties with international NGOs. This means that at least one member of each household has had dealings with western organizations providing aid to Ishkashim.

You are bound to find yourself in Kazakhstan, be sure to check out Big Almaty Lake!

Returning to Afghanistan

No matter if you are in Afghanistan’s Wakhan Corridor for an entire month or just a few days in Ishkashim, you are going to fall in love. The border town of Ishkashim teases you with just a taste of everything Afghanistan has to offer. Welcoming families, great food, rich culture, and expanses of unspoiled nature are just waiting to be explored.

Unfortunately, most of Afghanistan does not enjoy the same safety and security that Ishkashim does. Due to the town’s remote location in the Wakhan valley, Ishkashim has been spared from much of the bloodshed and war plaguing the rest of Afghanistan. Also, Ishkashim is populated by a minority Shia sect called Ismaili, which further distances itself from the ultra-conservatism and conflict in the country.

Afghanistan is still a war-torn nation where peace seems to be a distant reality for many people. In Ishkashim,  people can pretend for a few days that the guns have been laid down and that foreign tourists and Afghans can come together and finally break bread.