Chhangchhangdi: Syangja’s Holiest Temple

Discovering Syangja

Going north from the Sunauli border crossing to Pokhara, travelers will have to cross the mountainous region of Syangja. This is the kind of drive which leaves tourists with their nose pressed up against the glass. Their eyes fixated on the steep cliffs and endless green hills.

Although mesmerized by the beauty of Syangja, after arriving in the comfy bosom of Pokhara, few travelers are willing to turn back to further explore the places which flashed by on the bus ride. Due to the abundance of distractions around Phewa Lake or the lack of knowing where to get started, Syangja is left as nothing more than a memory.

If you do find yourself returning the Syangja in search of getting off the beaten path, there is no better place to start than at the holiest temple in the district: Chhangchhangdi.

Tansen is another city on the highway between Indian and Pokhara. You can read more here!

Paying to Pray

The glimmering banners, brightly painted archway and crowds of people lining to enter Chhangchhangdi are more than enough to turn some heads no matter how fast you may be blazing down the highway. Whenever there is any holiday or festival taking place in Syangja, you can be sure that all eyes of the district will be on Chhangchhangdi.

One of the months when this Hindu temple really comes alive is during Shrawan (a month according to the Vikram Samvat), which is known as Shiva’s favorite month. When Shrawan comes around the streets leading up to the temple turns into a massive bazaar. Shop owners bring their goods from across the district, selling anything from home goods to offerings to the gods.

Looking for other festivals in Nepal? Check out the rice planting festival!

Walking up the rainbow road

After passing through the winding bazaar leading up the hill, the path splits two directions. To the left, devotees carrying their offerings make their way to wait in a snaking line as if to hop on a ride at Disney World. Your eyes will be so captivated by the road on your right that you may fail to see this other path altogether.

Bright pink and lime painted steps lead to the summit of Chhangchhangdi and its temple. These colorful stairs seem to have popped right out of an Instagrammer’s dream, making them the perfect backdrop to pose in front of. Even locals can’t seem to resist the urge to turn their phone cameras back on themselves to snap the perfect selfie.

Looking for another famous temple nearby? Check out Amar Narayan Temple in Tansen!

Sadhus on the Steps

Especially during a month like Shrawan, you can expect Sadhus to flock to a temple as famous as Chhangchhangdi. Posting themselves upon the ledges of the lemonade colored steps, these holy men and women gaze over the pilgrims who come to worship at this temple.

Although revered in the Hindu religion, sadhus do not come without some scrutiny. There are some who still partake in many worldly pleasures which they should have forsaken years ago. Others are no more than impostors looking to swindle tourists and devotees alike.

Amongst those who are busy drinking and abusing ganja, you can still find sadhus who are on the right path. Visitors will just have to keep their eyes open for those who are truly looking to liberate themselves from this earthly world.

Looking to get more in touch with Hinduism? Check out the Bisket Jatra in Bhaktapur here!

The Crowds of Shrawan

No matter if you find yourself in India or Nepal, Shrawan is the best time to visit a Hindu temple. The first day of the month is a holiday in itself known as Shrawan Sakranti.

If you are trying to think about which day to visit the temple, you should definitely choose Monday, also known as Saune Sombar. On this day you will find people from all over the district coming to pray, fast, and dance for their gods.

While feminists may cringe at many of the practices during Shrawan, this is a month for Hindu women to either wish for a husband or pray for the health and well-being of their current spouse. Women can be seen lining up in droves for the chance to enter the temple and have their families blessed.

During Shrawan local volunteers even donate their time to help control the hoards of people elbowing their way into the temple. With a large amount of both police and volunteers, you may find some entrances to the temple closed off.

Looking for a city off the beaten path to explore? Be sure to explore the town of Panauti!

What Makes Chhangchhangdi So Special?

On any normal day, Chhangchhangdi would probably not be a place which would wow your typical tourist looking for a day trip out of Pokhara. Half of the main shrine is situated inside of a cave. The constant trickling of water inside the cavern is how Chhangchhangdi got its name. In the Magar language “chhang-chhang” is the sound of the droplets while “di” means water.

The temple itself is connected to a short story involving Shiva and Satyavati (a mythical queen). Following Satyavati’s death, Shiva scooped up her corpse and walking with it until it decayed. The last remnants of her body fell to the ground at the place which is now known as Chhangchhangdi. At this site, Shiva created a waterfall which is now the location of the temple.

Wanting to see more worships in Nepal? Check out the aarti puja in Panauti!

Songs and Pujaris

From the second you reach the temple grounds, you will not be able to escape the rhythmic chanting and instruments leading the people in prayer. For weeks leading up to the holiday, posters can be seen throughout the district advertising the coming of a famous priest (pujari) to conduct the worship at this temple.

Hidden behind a wall of colorful flowers and religious ornaments, the Hindu priest’s hand sways as he belts out some classic hymns and mantras. With an ensemble band keeping the beat with drums and tambourines accompanied by gentle flutes, even you won’t be able to resist joining in reciting the haunting chants.

When traveling in Nepal, be sure to check out one of the most famous Buddhist Temples: Namo Buddha!

The Original Trance Music

From the deep south in the United States to the temples of Taiwan, people everywhere believe that their bodies can be taken over by spirits, demons, and gods. Hinduism is no exception with possessions called Arul Vaaku. During a puja (worship) such as the one held at Chhangchhangdi, devotees can be seen dropping their belongs to the ground and dancing to the hymns played by the pujari.

These worshippers believe that their body is now possessed by no other than Lord Shiva. Some of these dancers are quite tame; swaying and spinning back and forth to the beat of the madal. Others go as far as to beat themselves in an act of self-mutilation and thrash about the courtyard. The possessed are usually kept under a watchful eye to make sure nothing gets out of hand.

 Captivated by possessions? Check out some Daoist gods here!

A Special Guest Appearance By…

When seeing a small army invading any place you can either expect to be taken away and never be seen again or be graced by some “big wigs” presence. On the first Saune Sombar, a band of armed guards pushed people out of the way in preparation for a member of congress from Kathmandu to pray at Chhangchhangdi.

Draped head to in orange, this politician made his way to the pujari’s throne with his entourage of intimidating police. After sharing a few laughs with the holy man and posing for a few photos for the local news, the orange-clad mustached congressman left and quickly as he arrived.

For many religious events in Nepal, you can expect there to be several politicians present to both pose for the camera and give a small speech. You seldom get the chance to see the red carpet laid out like it was in Chhangchhangdi, however.

What to experience more of the Hindu religion? Check out this traditional wedding in Bali!

Escaping the Crowds

When it is not a major holiday such as Shivaratri, Shrawan, or Tihar, you can expect the temple grounds of Chhangchhangdi to be totally empty. Due to the shrines distance from any nearby towns or villages, it is hard for people to visit this temple while going about their day.

If you do visit Chhangchhangdi on one of the more lively holidays where people come from around the district to visit the temple, the crowds may become overwhelming. Fortunately, most of the worshipers all hover over the main pagoda in the cave, not at the may other shrines in the area. This means you will find it quite easy to find peace and quiet, even on the busiest of days.

Looking to discover Hinduism in Bali? You can read more here!

Forgotten on the Tourist Highway

Many travelers dream of visiting the countryside of Nepal but not quite sure on how to do it. Syangja is located right on the tourist highway between Lumbini and Pokhara. Even though this district daily sees many tourists, few will take the initiative and explore the rice paddies and emerald mountains of Syangja.

If you do happen to find yourself taking it slow through Nepal or are looking for a day trip away from some of the tourist hubs, Chhangchhangdi offers the chance to get up close and personal with the Hinduism.

While it is only during the holidays when you will find dancing and music echoing off of the nearby cliffs, Nepal is a country full of festivals. This means you will never have to wait too long to truly immerse yourself with local culture at Chhanchhangdi!