Celebrating Navaratri at the Durgiana Temple in Amritsar

The City Outside of the Golden Temple

There is no shame in traveling to Amritsar and only seeing the Golden Temple. This massive city in Punjab brings thousands of pilgrims and tourists to its folds every month. Many of whom travel across the world just to pay their respects to the holiest site in Sikhism. The spiritual energy and thick culture which surrounds this temple is felt by all those who pass through its gates, but there is actually so much more to Amritsar than just the sacred pool and Golden Temple.

Apart from the chaotic madness which floods the back alleys of Amritsar, you can still find small oasis’ of peace and quiet in the midst of the anarchy. One of these places is the Durgiana Temple. While it may seem like nothing more than a cheap knock off of the more iconic Golden Temple, this Hindu Mandir maintains an atmosphere that is unique to itself. Especially during Navaratri, this temple is teeming with life.

You can read more about Amritsar’s iconic Golden Temple here!

Traveling to Durgiana Temple

Located on the edge of the lawless old city of Amritsar, the Durgiana Temple is one of the main focal points of Hindus in the city. The mandir resembling the neighboring Golden Temple is no mistake. Although this land has had a temple on its grounds since the 16th century, the current shrine was only built-in 1921.

Under the instruction of Guru Harsai Mal Kapoor, the new Durgiana Temple took much inspiration from the nearby Sikh pilgrimage site. With its own golden hall situated in the middle of a pool, the resemblance is uncanny. The grey doors, however, set the mandir slightly apart, earning it the nickname “The Silver Temple”.

Being a knock-off of the more famous Golden Temple, many tourists may be turned off from traveling to the Durgiana Temple. But in truth, this mandir has a completely different culture and atmosphere that sets it apart from its Sikh brother.

Going to be heading to Delhi? Be sure to make the must of your trip by traveling off of the beaten path! 

Hallowed Ground

After you take off your shoes and walk barefoot across the marble courtyard towards the walls of the Durgiana Temple, you will be greeted with a long causeway leading you to the heart of the sacred pool. While the Sikh Harmandir Sahib (The Golden Temple) has a line that will take you hours to reach the central shrine, you will be able to walk to the heart of this mandir with no fuss at all.

Once you reach the center of the Durdiana Temple there is not much to do but carefully inspect the statues and witness local Hindus worship in the temple. Although this temple is dedicated to the goddess Durga, you will find shrines for Hanuman, Laxmi, and Vishnu throughout the grounds.

As simple as the Durgiana Temple is, it is still regarded as an extremely important site in the eyes of Hindus. The sprawling bazaar which surrounds the temple isn’t even allowed to sell alcohol or tobacco in order to respect the sacredness of the area. It is not the shrine, but the devotion of the worshipers that make this mandir one of the most unique experiences in all of Amritsar.

Crossing the border from India into Pakistan? You can read my whole Wagah Border Guide here!

Kicking Off Navaratri at the Durgiana Temple

While in some countries you have to have careful coordination and planning to witness some of the culture’s most colorful and immersive celebrations, India is a place where the parades and fairs literally come to you. No matter what time of year you travel to India, you are sure to come across a handful of celebrations in the streets while exploring. If you happen to find yourself in Amritsar during Navaratri, these processions and pujas (worships) increase 10 fold. And there is no better place to experience the music and the dancing than at the Durgiana Temple.

Although there are many different interpretations of Navaratri throughout the Hindu world, there is one underlining theme: the victory of good over evil. In one of these stories, the Goddess Durga slays the buffalo demon Mahishasura in order to restore balance in the universe. Throughout Navaratri, you will find many processions dancing through the streets and making a ruckus going to and from Durgiana Temple.

The most common route for tourists is along the Golden Triangle. You can read more on India’s Golden Triangle here!

Dressing Like The Gods

Despite the festival celebrating the goddess Durga’s victory over evil, many of the devotees who make the pilgrimage to the Durgiana Temple arrive donning the garb of the monkey god Hanuman. With the god’s iconic gold gada (club) in hand, the Hindu worshipers dance in a circle of musicians and singers in the courtyard in front of the Silver Temple. The procession does not stop there, these groups of orange-clad young men will continue hooting and hollering around the pool, yelling their praise to the goddess.

Many children (and a few adults) will take dressing like Hanuman a step further by donning shiny silver outfits and a tall flamboyant hat. Many of the Hindus who decide to dress in this costume are usually held in the arms of their parents as they walk to pay their respects at the temple. But it is not uncommon to also find elderly men in these silver jumpsuits imitating the god Hanuman.

Wagah is not the only cross border parade. You can check out the Ganda Singh Wala Ceremony here!

Hanuman in the Streets

At the Durgiana Temple, you will have your fill of music, dancing, and witnessing Hindu prayers, but the moments that will stick with you for a lifetime are those which are unplanned. As night begins to fall and you lose yourself in the labyrinth of alleyways that make up Amritsar, you may turn a corner and come face to face with a living god. Rather than being a simple shiny costume, these processions up the ante and pull out all the stops to truly imitate the god Hanuman.

The surreal nature of seeing these monkey-faced deities wielding gilded clubs and strutting down the ill-lit alleys of Amritsar is more than enough to strike fear into the hearts of unsuspecting tourists. But for thrill-seekers and those who are captivated by the bizarre, you may find yourself following the procession rather than be struck dead in your tracks.

India is a country that is overflowing with temples, shrines, and devis that are daily filled with life by the local devotees who come to pay their respects. As breathtaking as the Golden Temple is, this mandir is a more stepping stone to exploring some of the more outlandish and vibrant cultures Amritsar has to offer. Rather than heading straight to Durgiana Temple, be sure to lose yourself along the way to find the true soul of India.