Train from Aktau to Nukus

Starting Off In Aktau

After several days of soaking up the rays in Aktau, it was time for me to prepare for my trip to Uzbekistan. For many travelers, Aktau is a good place to collect oneself and get ready for the next step of one’s journey. One or two days is more than enough to take in the beauty of the Caspian Sea and learn about the history of this seaside town. Some of the facilities are falling apart, umbrellas and bandstands slowly being consumed by rust, but this only adds to the character of the town. There are several destinations outside of Aktau which are worth visiting. The downside is that to get anywhere in the province of Mangystau, you need either the money to hire a diver or the time to buy a ticket for one of the tour buses running out to the more remote parts of the region. For those only staying for one or two days, it may not be enough time to arrange these trips.

Buying A Train Ticket

There are many ticket agencies throughout Aktau which sell tickets to Kungrad or onwards to Nukus. Depending on the train there is a difference in price. The Uzbek train costs 12,00 tenge (34 USD) and the Kazakh train is 16,000 (45 USD). These tickets are known to sell out, so it is recommended to book them well in advance. I was unlucky enough to miss my first train but was still able to buy a ticket for the next day. There is, however, no guarantee. The train station is quite far, located 20km outside of Aktau. A taxi from downtown will cost around 1,500 – 2,000 tenge (4-6 USD)

Mangystau Train Station

Arriving at the train station is quite straightforward. Push your way through the barking taxi drivers, trying to herd the arriving passengers into their cars and make your way into the building. Pass the security check and find your car. Depending on where you booked your seat, your ticket may or may not be in English. Be sure to have the agent  highlight your car and bunk number. After getting settled into my cabin, the train started to chug its way along. Departing at 10:10 we began our 32 hour journey to Uzbekistan.

The Kazakh Countryside

The train has no air conditioning and the only open windows are accessible from the top bunk. I was quick to climb up onto my bed to get the breeze and fresh air coming into the train. The countryside is an endless flat desert of rocks and orange sand. Every now and again we would pass wild horses and camels lazily grazing on what little grass was available in the wilderness. With the monotonous landscape and swaying of the train, it is easy for one to be slowly rocked to sleep.

The Passengers

Even though I took the the Kazakh train to Nukus, most of the passengers were Uzbek nationals. One of the reasons is that the last three cars are dedicated strictly for those making the long journey out to Nukus. The locals were extremely helpful. They gave information about how to get taxis from Nukus and onwards to Khiva and helped in exchanging money at the border. It is also typical custom in Central Asia that everything among passengers are shared, this includes water, tea, bread, and various types of meats purchased for the road.

The Waiting Game

Saying that the journey from Aktau to Nukus is 32 hours is a bit misleading. You are on the train for 32 hours, however 8 of those hours are spent unhitched from the train. On the side of the tracks many of the passengers squatted in the shade of the buildings and sat on adjacent pipes. A group of local women walked in circles around the train, selling various foods and drinks. As night fell, it became clear that the train was not arriving any time soon. Many people began to shuffle their way back into a dark train, trying their best to fall asleep in the hot musty cars.

Crossing the Border

Around 1am the train finally began moving again. It took only around 30 minutes to reach the Kazakh side of the border. The pain clothed train conductor made his way from bunk to bunk, making sure everyone had their passports ready and were sitting at attention. Several Kazakh border officials boarded the train, one carrying a black box shaped computer. He pulled out one of the fold-able train tables and motioned for the passengers to be stamped out of Kazakhstan one by one. The Uzbek side of the border was less modern, officials simply collected the passports and returned them after half an hour with them all being stamped. In total, the immigration process took about a hour and a half. Quick and painless.

Arriving in Nukus

After entering Uzbekistan, the train slowly emptied with each stop. For those wanting to exchange money, listen to women walking the aisles shouting “Tenge, Tenge” . This will be your only chance to exchange money for your taxi for your onwards journey from Nukus. From the border it took around 15 hours to reach Nukus. Most of the passengers spent this time drifting in and out of consciousness until finally reaching their destination. As we pulled into Nukus, many people were busy getting all of their luggage and packages ready to disembark. When first exiting, you will be hounded by a mob of taxi drivers. I was fortunate enough to find a driver who would take me to Khiva for the same price I was quoted on the train: 200,000 som (25 USD) . By the end of the journey I was weary and grumpy, but it was still a valuable experience and a great start to exploring Uzbekistan.