How To Get From Mingora To The Jarogo Waterfall In Swat Valley

Have You Heard Of Jarogo Waterfall?

Swat Valley has a rough and bloody history. From being occupied by the Taliban to local unrest, it is only recently that local tourists have felt comfortable enough to revisit the region. With Pakistanis just now warming up to the idea of traveling to Swat Valley, you can forget about seeing many international tourists.

Due to the lack of exposure, many of the most breathtaking places in Swat Valley are hidden well off the beaten path. While this may tickle the fancy of adventurous backpackers, these places are so unknown that even locals in Mingora (the largest city in Swat) have no clue on what would be the first step to get there.

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Setting Off From Nekpi Khel Bus Station

The Jarogo Waterfall is known as the highest waterfall in all of Pakistan. Even with it holding this record, people in Mingora will scratch their heads when you mention its name. Despite being a mere 50km away from Mingora, you can expect the trip to the falls to take at least half a day (not including the time to get back).

In order to get to the Jarogo Waterfall, you will first have to head to the Nekpi Khel Bus Station and take a plain coach (another word for a van) to a town called Matta. The price of the plain coach should be 150 PRK (1 USD). It will take a total of two transfers, in both Matta and Beha, before you finally reach the entrance to the Jarogo Waterfall.

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The Waiting Game

Although only 50km away from Mingora, the most frustrating thing about traveling to the Jarogo Waterfall is how difficult it is to get there. Due to you having to wait for a van in Mingora, Matta, and then again in Beha, most of your day will be spent waiting around at the bus park twiddling your thumbs until the plain coach fills up.

Only after those last couple of passengers find their seats, you will be off on a cramped bumpy ride up to Matta. Don’t be surprised if you find that your fare was paid for by one of the locals. Pakistanis are extremely hospitable and are excited to show you the best sides of their country.

After an uncomfortable 1.5 hour-long drive, you will be pulling into downtown Matta. From the bus park, it shouldn’t be too hard to get a ride up to Beha for 160 PKR (1USD). If you are finding it difficult to secure a plain coach, you may have more luck getting a van to Gwalerai. Gwalerai is a town just under 3km away from Beha and has a slightly larger bus park.

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The End Of The Line In Beha

Although it is a grueling process, you can get from Mingora to Beha via Matta relatively easily. It is best to set off from Mingora as early as possible to give yourself enough time in Beha to find a ride up to the entrance of the Jarogo Waterfall.

In Beha, you have several options on how to reach Jarago Falls. There are several drivers offering a special service up to Jarogo with prices ranging anywhere between 600 to 1000 PKR (3.90 to 6.50 USD). While there are no plain coaches at the moment heading further up into the valley, you will find some trucks loaded up with goods as well as a few passengers. You could hop into the bed of one of the pick-ups for around 150 PKR (1 USD).

After Beha, the road is incredibly unreliable. Although there is a lot of construction being done to improve road conditions, most of these narrow winding mountain passes are unpaved. So get ready to hold on tight if you decide to ride with the chickens and vegetables in the back of a truck.

Hospitality Of Swat Valley

News travels fast in Swat that a foreign traveler has entered the valley. From the second you step out of the plain coach, gossip will spread throughout the town like the ripples of a pebble dropping into a pond. Before long you will have people coming out from their homes and shops to shake hands with the tourist. Many of the locals will even want to show you traditional Pakistani hospitality.

Unfortunately, you are on a very tight timeframe if you are trying to get from Mingora to the Jarogo Waterfall and back in one day. You will have to turn down the many offers of tea and meals in people’s homes. If you do think you have some time to spare, however, no food you have during your entire trip will compare with a homecooked Pakistani meal.

Traveling Up Into The Valley

After you leave Matta behind you will gradually witness the surrounding hills transform into towering mountains. Unfortunately, if you are stuck in the middle seat on a plain coach from Matta to Beha, you will have to resort to clambering over other passengers to try and get a view of the lush green valley and majestic mountain peaks.

As you continue deeper into the valley the mountains will continue to grow in height as the roads continue to worsen. One of the advantages of riding in the back of the truck from Beha to Jarogo Falls is that you can stand up in the bed of the truck, giving you a panoramic view of the entire valley.

Rebuilding Swat Valley

Despite the region being dependent on agriculture, the houses which dot the valley all seem to be relatively new. As if living in some futuristic utopian society, the chrome rooftops blind travelers who look out into the hillside. The brand new homes with their shiny rooves may be a result of the 2015 earthquake. Up to now, many people are still in the process of rebuilding their lives after the tremors shook Swat Valley.

It is not just the emerald green fields and metallic villages that will catch your eye as you travel deeper into heart of the valley. Encircled by hundreds of sheep and goats you may spot some of the local villagers standing out from the natural greens and browns in a bright red kurta.

The People Of Jarogo

In most towns and villages in Pakistan, locals are overly friendly to the point where they are literally forcing tea and food down your throat. When traveling to the more remote areas of the country, however, you are literally like an alien which has dropped out of the sky. While a good proportion of the men are still extremely hospitable, you will get your fair share of cold stares.

Swat Valley is a part of Pakistan inhabited by Pashtun people. They typically get a bad reputation due to some small groups of terrorists operating in Afghanistan and Pakistan. But the second you entire the valley, any preconceived notions about Pashtuns you may have will be washed away with a hot cup of chai and a handshake.

Living Off Of The Map

Even though the local people are extremely warm and friendly, they still have a very conservative view of Islam. If you are a man (especially with a camera) expect women to be hiding in the bushes and slamming doors as you make your way down the road.

While they may treat you like Frankenstein’s monster arriving to terrorize the locals, it is important to remember you are in a part of the world where many people know nothing beyond the borders of their village. The sight of an unknown man, especially a foreign man, is a great cause for shock.

Arriving At Jarogo

It will take between 1-2 hours from Beha to the start of the hike to the Jarogo Waterfall. It will be quite obvious when you reach the entrance with its colorful flags, advertisements for 4-wheelers, and a small restaurant. But due to construction on the road between Beha and Jarogo, you may have to walk a bit further to reach the start of the trail.

Taking a left from the restaurant, finding the path up to the waterfall is quite easy. With the stream as your guide, it is roughly an hour hike from the entrance up to Jarogo Falls. Be prepared to get your feet wet. There are several places along the trail where you will have to jump rocks in order to cross the river.

The Tallest Waterfall In Pakistan

Towards the end of your hour-long hike, the roar of the cascading river will greet you as you begin to approach the waterfall. After several cramped van rides, hanging on to the back of a truck, and finally, a short hike, the sight of the Jarogo Waterfall will make it all worth it.

With the towering trees, massive boulders, and mossy cliff face, it almost feels as if you are viewing a scene from Jurrasic Park. During the summer months, you may expect to find a bit more tourists climbing over the rocks for a view of the waterfall. But in the autumn you will practically have the entirety of Jarogo Falls to yourself.

Sadly, if you are looking to head back to Mingora in one day you won’t have too much time to bask in the beauty of the rushing water. If you start hiking back around 3:00 you will manage to catch one of the last buses from Beha to Matta. For the more outdoorsy traveler, there is a meadow at the top of the Jarogo Waterfall where many locals can be found camping overnight.

Traveling to the Jarogo Waterfall is not easy. With lots of waiting and several transfers, heading out to this remote region of Swat Valley is a lot to squeeze into one day. But for those who consider the journey just as important as the destination, a trip to the Jarogo Waterfall is sure to be one of your most fond memories of Pakistan.