Ulaanbaatar Winter Travel: Preparing For The Smog And Snow
Braving the Frost and Snow
Like it or not, it is inevitable that you will end up in Ulaanbaatar. No matter if you are arriving on the Trans-Siberian Railroad or flying in, you will need to spend a few days in this urban valley. Especially during the winter months, a black cloud shrouds the sprawling Mongolian capital. With fires burning 24/7 in the yurt camps to keep out the cold, Ulaanbaatar turns into one of the most polluted cities on the planet.
Although it is easy to get bogged down by the smog and snow, Ulaanbaatar still has a certain charm to it. Braving the chill in the air and strolling through a city with extreme contrasts leaves a lot to be explored. Of course, no one travels to Ulaanbaatar for the urban sprawl, but Ulaanbaatar is still a city that deserves to be experienced.
Crossing the border from China into Mongolia? Read about just how to do it here!
Surviving Ulaanbaatar
The first thing that you will have to prepare for when traveling to Ulaanbaatar during the winter is the temperature. Since the capital is situated in a valley, the surrounding mountains act like a tunnel for the extreme cold blowing through the city. Even areas in Siberia to the north are known to be far warmer than Ulaanbaatar. You are bound to psyche yourself out over freezing weather despite there being no real danger. The fact of the matter is that a few layers of clothing, some warm socks, and a winter hat is more than enough to protect yourself from the chill of Mongolia’s winter.
The next thing which you will have to mentally prepare for is that, on the surface, Ulaanbaatar is a depressing city. And it’s not just the smog. The urban centers of the capital are a spitting image of the concrete boxes which made up the Soviet Union.
It’s not only the crumbling drab apartment blocks that give Ulaanbaatar a bad rap. The city also consists of a massive yurt camp. Nearly 45% of Mongolia’s population calls the capital city home. Many of them have moved from the countryside, seeking out more opportunities in Ulaanbaatar. The result is that without proper housing, thousands of families like in yurts erected on top of each other, spreading out as far as the eye can see.
Wanting a quick day trip out of Ulaanbaatar? Check out the Genghis Khan Equestrian Statue!
Finding the Charm of the City
Due to years of Soviet influence, Mongolia has lost its traditional script, parts of its culture, and many of the monasteries which were the very reason Ulaanbaatar was founded in the first place. Even with decades of being squeezed by the iron fist to the north, the spirit of the Mongolian people shines through the soot and rubble.
Throughout the city, although difficult to find, there are still pavillions and brightly colored temples adorned with golden spires and curved terracotta rooves. Places such as the Gandantegchinlen Monastery, Bogd Khan Palace, and Choijin Lama Temple survived the purge by communist forces on the city of Ulaanbaatar. Although traditional architecture is few in number, you will still fall in love with the oasis’ of a bygone time spread out around Ulaanbaatar.
You can read more about what it is like to travel through Mongolia during the winter here!
A View From The Top
Other than the few Buddhist refuges hidden throughout the city, there are few places where one can really take in all of the city of Ulaanbaatar. The entire urban sprawl is centered around a shopping center simply known as The State Department Store. While you are offered views of the city from the top floor, they don’t really do Ulaanbaatar justice. To truly take in the entire UB skyline you will have to head to the Zaisan Hill Memorial.
If you are fortunate enough to have a strong breeze blow through the valley, the smog will give way to reveal the city of Ulaanbaatar and the blue skies that Mongolia is famous for. On the other hand, if the black veil that covers the capital doesn’t recede, you will be wishing for a gas mask before descending back into the urban decay of Ulaanbaatar.
Finding yourself in Inner-Mongolia in China? Read about traveling to Hohhot here!
The Beauty In Soviet Influence
Much like any imperial power, the Soviet Union left its mark on Mongolia. Just as you’d visit colonial heritage sites in the Americas despite the horrific acts committed on the local people, Ulaanbaatar has its own reminders of the Communist’s influence throughout the city. While the word Soviet is often regarded as a negative term, the dramatic monuments and murals which can be found at every corner in the USSR’s sphere of influence are nothing short of stunning.
While the most iconic of these Communist relics can be found at Zaisan Hill, there are plenty of murals and monuments tucked away throughout Ulaanbaatar. Even amongst the uniform apartment complexes, you can be surprised by a splash of color and socialist art adorning the sides of buildings.
You can find a full winter itinerary to Mongolia here!
Making The Best Of A Layover
We are not going to pretend like Ulaanbaatar is the shining city on the top of the hill. Nobody travels to Mongolia to be confined in the concrete hole of the capital. Mongolia is a country of wide-open spaces, untamed wilderness, and nomadic herdsmen. But before you can venture out to the steppes under the majestic blue sky, you will have to spend a few days in Ulaanbaatar.
While Ulaanbaatar is sure not to be the highlight of your trip, you don’t have to be miserable either. From the temples and palaces to the contrast of architecture, Mongolia’s capital is still a city that can be enjoyed before you begin your adventure out in the unknown.
