Crossing The Wagah Border From Amritsar India To Lahore Pakistan

Starting Off In The Golden City

The nations of India and Pakistan are both quite new. Before the lines of these countries were drawn nearly 75 years ago, the people of Punjab were not divided by the Wagah Border and miles of barbed wire. For the Sikh people, as well as Punjabis as a whole, part of their history and culture is lost behind the walls and guns that separate these two adversaries.

There seems to be no end in sight to the ceaseless coming to blows over issues pertaining to Kashmir. But despite this, India and Pakistan still open their borders to travel between the two countries. Unfortunately for Indian and Pakistani nationals, securing a visa is next to impossible. Even for international travelers, the Pakistan e-visa has only been just launched.

Even with the easing of visa requirements for foreign travelers, it does not make getting to Pakistan any easier. Flights to cities such as Islamabad and Lahore carry an astronomical price tag. Discouraging hopeful travelers to take the plunge into Pakistan. Fortunately, there is a back door open to Pakistan by way of the Wagah Border from India.

The Amritsar Bus Station

There are several ways that you could get to the Pakistan-Indian Border at Wagah. Taxis will cost you anywhere between 500-1000 Rupees (7-14 USD) depending on your bargaining skills. Around the Maharaja Ranjit Singh Statue, you will find tons of people offering trips to the Wagah Border for around 100 Rupees (1.50 USD). Be careful, because the border will close between 4 and 5 o’clock and these buses usually arrive only in time for the border closing ceremony.

The cheapest and most time-efficient way to get to the Wagah Border is to head straight to the Amritsar Bus Stand. At dock 23 you will find a bus living every thirty minutes directly to Atari, a town 3km away from the Pakistan-Indian Border. The trip costs just 35 Rupees (0.50 USD) and will arrive in Atari in under an hour.

Approaching The Wagah Border From Atari

As you begin closing in on Atari, army bunkers will begin to dot either side of the road. Being just 28km from the border, Amritsar is literally at the front line when any conflict between India and Pakistan arises. Even though there is an obvious military presence between Amritsar and Lahore, it seems to be nowhere near as tense as the DMZ between North and South Korea. Maybe due to the fact that Wagah is also a popular tourist attraction, the number of active soldiers seen has been drastically toned down.

Once arriving in Atari, it is only 3 km to the border. There are loads of pedicab drivers who will harass passengers the second you step out of the bus. They will usually start the fare for taking you to Indian Border at 50 Rupees but  can be talked down to about 30 INR (0.40 USD)

The border is dead silent. With very few local and international travelers, the security officers usually have to shake themselves awake and remember what exactly their duties are. There are many times throughout immigration where you will have to wait for someone to wake up from their nap to inspect your luggage and stamp you out of India.

Stepping Into The Wagah Colosseum

The Wagah Border is by far one of the most bizarre crossings you will ever experience. Due to the nightly Flag Lowering Ceremony, a massive colosseum has been constructed between the two countries. Luggage in hand, travelers walk through this stadium with arena-style seating. Like a gladiator in a Roman colosseum, the gates that separate India and Pakistan are slid open by camo-clad soldiers, allowing you to pass through to the other side.

After getting over the jitters of having to parade yourself through the enormous Wagah amphitheater, Pakistani immigration awaits you on the other side of the gates. Unless you already got your Pakistan visa stamp beforehand, you will have to bring a copy of your e-visa with you to the border. This document is extremely important because after being let into the country, every hotel and security post will ask to see the printed out copy of your e-visa.

Much like the Indian side of the border, Pakistani immigration officers well have to scratch their heads remembering what exactly is their job. Many of the soldiers will be overly friendly and even strike up an idle conversation rather than processing your passport or moving you on through immigration. After endless handshakes and dealing with soldiers who are looking at a passport for the first time, you will find yourself officially stepping foot into Pakistan.

Reaching Lahore

Around Pakistan’s immigration office you will find a few men hiding in the bushes offering to exchange some money for you. Despite how shady they come across, they will give you a relatively fair rate which will cover your cost for getting into Lahore. It is a bit of a walk between the border controlled areas and the actual town of Wagah. There is a small shuttle that takes passengers to the parking lot, but if you are not willing to wait, walking is also an option.

Due to the recent conflicts between Pakistan and India, your options on getting from Wagah to Lahore are extremely limited. The best way to get into Lahore is by rickshaw, which will cost around 800 PKR (5 USD). You could also hang around for the Border Closing Ceremony which starts at 4:30 Pakistan time. After the parade finishes, you may find it easier to get a ride into Lahore.

Welcome To Pakistan

Despite how exhausting and emotionally taxing it is to cross an international border, you will find yourself standing in India and stepping foot into Pakistan before you know it. The whole process should take no more than 30 minutes, not including the time it takes to chat with each and every immigration officer in Pakistan.

For the time being, you will find that the immigration offices on either side of the border are a ghost town. As Pakistan continues to become a safer country to travel in and their tourist visas become more attainable, it won’t be long before travelers are queuing-up on each side of the border. The only thorn in Pakistan’s side is its ability to get along with its long lost brothers to the east.