Visiting Mangyongdae Children’s Palace in Pyongyang
Impressions of Pyongyang
North Korea’s capital Pyongyang is not usually topping the yearly list of top destinations by publications such as Trip Advisor and the Lonely Planet. Although The Hermit Kingdom’s hard-lined authoritarian image has softened in recent years, North Korea is still well-known as a rouge socialist dictatorship which compromises stability in the world.
From missile tests to mass military parades, these are a few of the images which flash across the screens in living rooms throughout western countries. If one were to dig a bit deeper, clips of children singing the praise of the Kim dynasty while playing massive guitars are sure to pop up on your browser.
These robotic movements accompanied with an extremely exaggerated smile frightens yet captivates western viewers. Many questions have been raised about the emotional toll the children must go through to perform in such concerts as well as their willingness.
When on a tour in North Korea, witnessing these children performers is sure to be one of the highlights. After being carted from monument to monument, your bus will finally pull up in front of Mangyongdae: The Children’s Palace.
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Entering the Palace
Like any of the buildings around Pyongyang, Manyongdae does not fail to wow all those who find themselves climbing up those who approach its doors. Its imposing brutalist architecture is adorned with the beaming portraits of both Kim Il-sung and Kim Jong-il. The cold facade and smiling leaders gives one the mixed feelings of being both warmly welcomed yet intimidated.
As soon as you walk through the grey stone entrance, the entire interior morphs into an array of bright comical colors and animated characters. Mangyongdae is, after all, a center for after school activities. These Young Pioneers (members of the Korean Children’s Union) are groomed to be model citizens as well as child prodigies.
The vibrant hues and cartoon characters plastered on the walls of Mangyongdae are sure to incorporate state propaganda. The most obvious being a massive rocket displayed front in center for all students and guests to see.
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Child Prodigies
It is no secret that when joining one of the tours to North Korea that travelers will only see the best of what the DPRK has to offer. This means you will have no opportunity to see what lays behind the curtain which veils much of this mysterious country.
When being led through the grand halls of Pyongyang’s Children’s Palace you will catch a glimpse at what North Korea’s best and brightest are up to. Mangyongdae offers red scarved youth a variety of classes. From sports such as volleyball to drawing still life, every corner of this complex is full of children actively engaged in their classes while picture-snapping tourists poke their heads into every room.
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When The Lights Go Out
Taking everything with a pinch of salt is essential when visiting North Korea. Just strolling through the parks will make one cock their eyebrow at the extremely choreographed manner that locals go about their day. As a foreigner in Pyongyang, the itineraries are airtight to ensure that nothing unexpected will occur as you are led by the nose through the streets of North Korea’s capital.
Mangyongdae is no exception. These children make little eye contact with the boorish westerns who come to gawk at their lessons. Engrossed in their work, these students are busy drawing the latest masterpieces and composing grand symphonies. While there is obvious talent amongst each group of students, some of the art seemed far too perfect to be done by the hands of a 7-year-old.
Every once in a while a child will be following you from the corner of their eye or whisper the occasional joke in the ear of their classmate. If caught breaking the wall between the Koreans and tourists by their hawk-like teacher the students will be given a stare which chills even onlookers to the bone. One can only guess what became of these children as the foreigners filed out of the classroom.
Like much in the DPRK, everything seems a bit too perfect in these classrooms, making one wonder how much of this work is actually done by the students themselves and what happens when the lights go out.
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Search Lights, Security Cameras, Action!
After getting a taste of all of the extra-curricular activities which the Children’s Palace has to offer, tourists will then be ushered into an enormous auditorium. Mangyongdae opens its doors every Tuesday and Thursday, inviting parents, locals, and foreign tourists to see what the youngest generation of North Koreans are up to.
As soon as every seat is full, the lights dim and all but a single spotlight goes out. Standing against a satin red curtain, a young girl introduces their performance in the most dramatic and piercing voice imaginable. As soon as her declaration came to an end the curtains raised and the show began.
An ensemble of musicians, singers, and dancers pranced across the stage. Uncountable numbers of children holding nearly every instrument imaginable strummed and played in unison. From electric guitars to the more traditional gayageum, the number of things going on at one time on stage is enough to make one’s head spin.
The show included several acts which included the singing of patriotic songs, a retelling of traditional Korean fairy-tales and showcasing the sheer talent of the performers in the form of an insane drum solo.
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Proud Parents
Despite the fact that much of the tour is manipulated by the great and powerful Oz hiding behind some curtain somewhere, there are still some truly genuine moments to be had in the DPRK. After the hundreds of children finished flaunting their skills on stage, they all joined together to thank the audience.
As a round of applause erupted amongst the crowd, one could not help but take a look around the auditorium as soon as the lights came blaring on. Directly behind the various tour groups who are seated front and center from the stage are the cheering parents of the young performers.
The look on these mother’s and father’s faces is something which truly can not be imitated by an actor. The beaming smiles and the frantic waves as they tried to get their children’s attention on the stage is a scene which we can all recollect from our own childhood.
On any tour to North Korea, you can expect to see only what the powers that be want you to see. Regal palaces, grand marble halls, and museums dedicated to immortalizing the various feats of their great leaders top the list of things you will see in Pyongyang. Every once in a while you can see through the heroic stone and bronze statues of the DPRK and see someone human smiling back.