Exploring the Walled City of Khiva
Opening the Gates to Uzbekistan
It wasn’t until just recently that foreign tourists were able to venture into the deserts and ancient cities of Uzbekistan. The fall of the Soviet Union did not stop this Central Asia country from maintaining a tight grip on who is allowed to leave and enter this secretive country.
Following the suit of the neighboring countries of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan finally opened up its borders to partake in the tourist boom sweeping through “the Stans”. Although hesitant at first to enter the world stage, Uzbekistan has quickly made a name for itself as a tourist hub with beauty to even match the likes of Rome.
Life is changing fast in Uzbekistan. Ancient stone streets and madrasas of the silk road are now being lined with coffee shops and souvenir stands. While many may still consider Uzbekistan off the beaten path, it won’t be long until you find more tour groups than locals entering through the walled city’s majestic gates.
You can read more on Uzbekistan opening its borders to tourism here!
Walls in the Desert
Unlike the other sprawling cities in Uzbekistan, the heart of Khiva is still intact. Places such as Bukhara or Samarkand have been overrun with modernization. The ancient city walls have been torn down to make way for shopping centers and residential areas. The lines between the past and the present are usually blurred with supermarkets propped up next to towering minarets and nostalgic madrasas.
Khiva is the only place in Uzbekistan where it seems as if you are actually stepping back in time. With sun-baked mud walls surrounding the city, one almost feels as if they are on a movie set rather than in present-day Khiva. The distance between the modern city and the walled fortress further creates the illusion of being a weary traveler seeking refuge in a caravanserai.
The area surrounding the base of the rampart lays barren. Sand and rocks separate the old town from the few residential buildings which seem to respect the sanctity of ancient Khiva. Only the occasional traveling circus will encroach on the walls of this medieval city. Not even the colorful tents are enough to destroy the illusion of stepping back into time and journeying into one of the gems along the silk road.
Looking to travel to Samarkand? Read more here!
The Unfinished Minaret
Like a tractor beam, tourists will be drawn to the Kalta-Minor Minaret with their eyes wide staring into the mesmerizing turquoise blue of the tower. It is without a doubt that this Islamic pillar will be the first thing that will have you sold on traveling out to the deserts of Uzbekistan. The rich blue glazed tiles of the minaret stand out from the sea of surrounding tan buildings like a ring on a finger. Giving a splash of glimmering color to the otherwise monochromatic scene.
Known as the short minaret, Kalta-minor doesn’t quite compete with some of the other Islamic towers in Central Asia. There are many myths surrounding the reason that this tiled pinnacle failed to reach its full height. The more mundane answer to the question is that the Khanate spent all the money to fund wars with the Turkmen tribes. The myth, however, is much more captivating.
While constructing Kalta-minor, the architect was offered the opportunity to build another, even taller, tower in Bukhara. As soon as the Khan learned that he was going to lose the mastermind behind his minaret to Bukhara he had the craftsman executed. After the gruesome death of the engineer, no other architect dared to work for the Khan to complete the tower.
Looking to travel to Bukhara? Read more here!
Madrasas and Minarets
Just like how Thailand has temples and Europe has churches, Uzbekistan is a country filled to the brim with madrasas. No matter which city you visit in this Central Asian country, a madrasa is sure to be one of the main attractions that they are trying to sell to tourists.
Centuries ago, the silk road was so much more than a trade route. It was an expressway sharing ideas, science, literature, and religion. These Islamic Schools were the lifeblood of culture and influence in Asia. Khans and kings would empty their treasuries to build these grandiose universities adorned with towering spires and gleaming mosaics.
It is easy, however, to take for granted the beauty you are being presented in each of these cities along the Silkroad. You may find yourself yawning at the golden mosques and domes which dominate the oriental skyline. This is one of the reasons it is essential to take it slow when traveling to a city such as Khiva. Do not rush to enter each and every mosque around the old town, but spend the time to truly soak in the ambiance of the city.
Turkmenistan is only a short cab ride away from Khiva. Look at traveling to this secretive country here!
The People of Khiva
When wandering the stone streets of Khiva, in the shadow of the tall glossy towers and sandstone fortresses, you will notice a certain lack of people. Even the main road, splitting the old town of Khiva down the middle, may be devoid of people on the usually busy weekends. While this is in no way a negative aspect of traveling to this historic walled city, it does make one scratch one’s head. How could such a historically and culturally rich city such as Khiva be so empty?
You will find some locals dressed in their weekend best, visiting the age-old mosques and madrasas around the town. Families with children donning traditional Uzbek clothing can be seen piling out of cars, forcing their kids to partake in awkward photoshoots throughout the old-town.
This calm which hangs over Khiva cannot last forever. It will not be long before droves of tourists coming from both the East and the West will be entering and exiting these madrasas like lines of ants. Enjoy the empty streets while you can, the flood gates are sure to open before you know it.
Looking to visit Uzbekistan via Kazakhstan? Look at how to get from Aktau to Uzbekistan here!
The Sunsets on Khiva
What truly makes Khiva stand apart from the rest of the cities along the historic Silkroad is the fact that its towering walls are still intact. Furthermore, tourists can scramble up the staircases and stroll along the ramparts, which offer a panoramic view of the entire city of Khiva.
When compared with the likes of Bukhara and the world famous Samarkand, Khiva is by far our favorite. The madrasas’, minarets, mosques, and even town buildings all work together to transport travelers back to a time of grand caravans and nomadic traders. With the entire old city being enclosed behind a mighty sandstone wall, Khiva is a place that looks like it has popped out right from a fairytale.
As the wonders of Uzbekistan continue to attract crowds, it is the hope of many that the country can still maintain the mystical ambiance which shrouds its most precious cities. With droves of selfie-stick wielding tourists, places such as Khiva will feel more like Disneyland rather than one of the most well-preserved gems along the Silkroad.
