Hida Takayama: Kyoto of the Japanese Alps
The Northern Gateway to the Alps
There are few cities in Japan which can compete with Kyoto in the number of traditional wooden style buildings that were spared after World War II. Kanazawa boats an extensive samurai district, geisha district, castle, as well as many other neighborhoods built by prewar artisans.
The appeal of Kanazawa is that it sells itself as being just as immersive as the ancient capital of Kyoto but with substantially fewer tourists. The city dazzles travelers with its elaborate gardens and unique temples such as the famous Ninja Temple. Even when amongst such masterfully constructed architecture which reminds one of the bygone days of feudal Japan, one still can’t shake the feeling of imposing urbanization.
Although disappointed with Kanazawa, Japan has a habit of constantly surprising its visitors. While sitting by Kanazawa Castle, a thick blanket of snow began to adorn the walls of the ancient citadel. Unlike other places around the world, the ideal round flakes could not have been made any more perfect. Like a scene from a children’s book, the powdery snow transformed Japan into a winter wonderland.
Little Kyoto of Hida
One of the main reasons for tourist going to Takayama is the train journey itself which offers a showcase of the beauty of the Japanese Alps. From Kanazawa, travelers will first have to take the train to Toyama and transfer to the service going to Takayama. After traveling 2 hours, going over 167km, you have arrived in the quaint rustic town of Takayama.
In mid-February, the entirety of the journey deep into the Alps was blessed with the continual falling of delicate snowflakes. The dramatic mountains and sturdy woods were softened with the white sheet of powder drawn over them. Before long, the twisting and turning through the mountain passes came to a close. With a jolt, the train pulled into its station, letting off its anxious passengers.
The initial crunch of your shoes first breaking the ice in front of the train station marks your formal inauguration to you Takayaka adventure. The first thing you will notice is not only the age of the buildings of Takayama but how intimate the town truly is. Due to the city’s remote location and mountainous landscape, Takayama has maintained a low population. Therefore the city has had no need to build enormous highways like other core cities.
The many alleyways and narrow streets are much the same as they were hundreds of years ago. People are walking the very same streets that locals have walked for generations and will be for generations to come.
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Center of Japanese Mountain Culture
One of the first things other than the weather that will mesmerize travelers who visit Takayama during the winter is the contrast between the bright white snow and the vibrant red toriis. Other than these blood red spirit gates, no other structure can truly cut through the intensity of the wintery landscape.
After shaking off the hypnosis from the toriis, Takayama is a maze of hidden gems tucked behind every street corner and alleyway. Other than its many temples scattered around the city, Takayama’s old city gives tourists a taste of local flavor. The largest cluster of traditional style buildings is situated along the banks of the Miyagawa River. It is here where tourists can find many sake breweries, restaurants, and even daily open-air markets.
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A Haunting Winter
With such brilliant white snow covering the earth, dusk creeps in slow. Rather than having a quick transition from daylight to the black of night, a blue haze illuminates these winter evenings. For what may seem like hours, the city seems to resist the dark with the snow absorbing whatever light is left from that day.
Just as it seems that night has finally settled in, classical Japanese lanterns glow a brilliant orange, illuminating the bluish snow. The twinkling of the lanterns and the almost mythical size of the torii leading to the nearby Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine adds to the illusion that you are walking through a Miyazaki film.
In the largest of metropolises and the smallest of villages, Japan’s atmosphere always has a sense of fantasy lingering in the air. A country which such a distinct culture has spirits living in nearly every element of daily life. Out all of the cities in Japan, the mountaintop town of Takayama has more of these gods floating through its streets than anywhere else in the country.
As the day draws to a close and the orange of the lanterns glimmer through the dark, it won’t just be just the weather that will send chills down your spine.
To see the spirits of Takayama take to the streets be sure to check out the annual Takayama Matsuri!
More Than a Transit City
Most tourists traveling through Takayama use it as nothing more than a stopover to the idyllic farmhouses of Shirakawago. As picturesque as this rural alpine village is, it comes nowhere close to having as much soul as Takayama. It may have just been the majesty of winter that amplified the beauty of Takayama, but it still possesses an indescribable allure which you can not find even in Kyoto.
There are few towns throughout Japan which can say they have traditional districts which have survived the war. Most people are drawn to Kyoto, or attempt to get off the beaten track in Kanazawa. For those truly wanting to step back into the romantic Edo period, journey into the beating heart of the Japanese Alps to the town of Takayama.
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