Seeing Kok Boru in Osh: A Showcase of Kyrgyz Culture

Departing Osh

After a long full day’s journey from Kashgar to Osh via the Irkeshtam Pass, I was set to stay in bed all the next day. As soon as I heard that the hostel was putting together a group to go watch some traditional Kyrgyz sports, I could not pass up this great opportunity. I was further sold on the idea after hearing that they will be playing kok boru, a traditional Central Asian sport involving horseback riding and dead goats. A handful of tourists then crammed into a large white tour van and left the dusty city of Osh and reentered the green alpine scenery which is Southern Kyrgyzstan.

Entering the Valley

After driving a hour and a half down well paved highway, we made the turn into the valley. Although the road was rough, jerking passengers to the point of vomiting, the scenery was nothing short of picturesque. Rolling waves of green hills breaking against snow capped stone mountains expanded out as far as the eye can see. Between the tall trees were white yurts, leaving a trail of smoke climbing up to the brilliant blue sky. Locals galloping by on horses and carting truck loads of goats and cattle waved as we passed by. While being in the heart of the nomadic life is something that most travelers yearn for, a problem arose: our driver was lost.

Would You Like To Dance?

As the driver was frantically trying to find out where we were supposed to be, the tourists emptied out of the van and explored the nearby yurt camp. Families brought us into their homes,  welcomed photos of their yurts and them wearing traditional dress, and even began to blast some Kyrgyz music. What began as just a few elderly people moving to the music, eventually led into a full on dance party as the locals encouraged the tourists to join. Out of all the countries I have traveled to, I have found no one who likes to dance as much as the people in Kyrgyzstan.

Dinner and a Show

As soon as the driver finished making a few calls, the tourists were reluctantly corralled back into the van and set of back down the road. Nestled in a grove of trees were another collection of yurts where we were to have lunch. After getting settled on the cushions sitting cross legged, platters of meats, biscuits, and vegetables filled the circular table we were sitting around.  With mouths full of food, the performances started. One after another musicians, singers, and story tellers made their way to the center of the yurt to give us a sample of traditional Kyrgyz culture. The performers even tried to get the guests involved by passing around a cup of tea. After singing a song, the performer would then hand the cup to the person they wish to sing next. While we were no where near as skilled as the Kyrgyz singers, it was a nice coming together of two cultures.

Finding the Playing Fields

The lunch concluded and we found ourselves back in the van trying to locate our next destination in the valley. The clouds turned from white to grey and the rain began to pour. As much as our poor driver tried, he couldn’t take the van further up the mountain to where the games were to be played. After another phone call, we were informed that we would have to hike to the field on the top of the mountain.  The tourists were slipping and sliding as they attempted to climb the mud path up to the top, but to no avail. As we were left there in the cold rain and mud, horses came into the view over the horizon. Like a scene straight out of a cowboy movie, the participants rode in from the distance to take us to the games.

Kok boru: Dead Goat Polo

The riders began with the crowd favorite: kokboru. Kok boru (or Buzkashi in Afghanistan) is a game which consists of a dead goat and the players ramming their horses into each other while fighting over its carcass. This high adrenaline war between horses took the riders to all corners of the valley. One moment you could be viewing the game from a safe distance, and the next you will be in the middle of an onslaught of Kyrgyz cavalry. This game is not for the light of heart. Those who are sensitive to animal abuse and worried about their overall safety should stay clear of an event where kok boru is played. On the other hand, for travelers wanting to get a taste of true nomad culture, kok boru is a must.

Spectators

While the men were ramming into each other on their horses and shoving their opponents to the ground while wrestling horseback. Wives, grandmothers, and small children watched from further up the hill. Older children would try their best to keep up with the adults. Some young teens were brave enough to even ride on head first into the mass of horses batting it out in the middle of the valley. All of these children were tough beyond imagination, a product of nomadic upbringing. Kids as young as four would saddle up and try to ride on adult horses. Unfortunately for them, the horse was totally unaware to the small rider. The women participated in a few of the games, such as tug of war and another event which involved a man chasing after a woman horseback.

The Games

Other than Kok boru, the riders wrestled horseback, raced from one end of the valley to the other, played tug of war, as well as other games which challenged participants strength. The players were also actively encouraging the tourists to partake in some of the games, especially tug of war. Due to the recent rain, the ground was soft, leaving us tourists and locals alike covered in a fresh paint of mud. I was particularly unlucky, being covered from head to toe.

Return to Osh

The games came to an end and after a few photos we said our goodbyes to the nomads of the valley. The music, dancing, and games were a great introduction to what the heart of Kyrgyzstan is like. Despite any hardships what one may face while traveling through Central Asia the Kyrgyzstan people make one feel truly at home.

The tour to the games and cultural performance was arranged through Osh Guest House

For travel advice and information of tours contact the local CBT Office

Don’t forget to check out the World Nomad Games for Kok-boru on a much grander scale!

For more pictures and information on my trip to Kyrgyzstan click here!