Entering The Gates of Hell

Traveling Through The Karakum Desert

After a short stop over at Kunya Urgench we began heading south through the Karakum desert. In order to avoid the sea of pot holes, we were forced to ride on the side of the road. The landscape began to drastically change, from shrubs and rocks to high sand dunes. The most dangerous thing is not the condition of the road, but rather the wandering camels. As the sun begins to set, the camels stand thoughtless in the middle of darkness. If hit, unaware drivers not only have to worry about repairing their car, but also compensating the camels owner. Compared to all the other countries I have traveled to, Turkmenistan has the most camels I have ever seen in the wild.

Roadside Melon Sellers

My driver, being from Ashgabat, made sure to make a pit stop at one of the many roadside stalls selling melons. In the capital, the prices of these fruits are doubled or ever tripled. Between my driver and guide, they bought a total of 30 melons from the farmers. When driving through the countryside, a farmers life seems to be one of hardship and poverty. It was a refreshing scene to see money reaching the farmers, rather than just another shape on the passing road.

Approaching The Flames

After driving over 300km we had to pull off road to reach our final destination: The Gates of Hell. The driver, who drove jeeps in the military during his mandatory term of service, masterfully navigated his way over the soft sand and high dunes until we finally reached the surrounding camps around Darvaza Crater. After the platform over the natural gas field collapsed in 1971, geologists lit it on fire to prevent the spread of methane gas. The sinkhole has been burning ever since. At the moment there are only a few tourist yurts built half a kilometer from the crater, most independent travelers are left pitching their own tents. Tourism is growing however, plans for asphalt roads leading to the Gates of Hell are in development. Tourists and locals both see the benefits of  making the attraction more accessible, but weary of the site becoming a dump due to lack of proper amenities.

The Mongol Rally

During the summer months, the uniquely painted compact cars venturing from Europe are a common sight on the highway’s of Central Asia. Starting from London, these drivers take rundown, second hand cars and drive them across the world to Ulan-Ude in Russia (near Mongolia) The participants come from all over Europe and from a range of backgrounds. When approaching the flames, a car with florescent lights and smoke emitting from the windows, came to an abrupt stop at the top of a high dune overlooking the crater. Like stepping out of an UFO, these characters, beer in fist, stared in awe at the Gates of Hell. Despite their rather unorthodox appearance, they were a lovely group which were willing to share anything that they had. This kind of behavior is typical among the drivers of the Mongol Rally, very open and hospitable to other travelers on the road.

If you want more Information on the Mongol Rally click here!

The Gates of Hell

Even though the crater is enclosed with a low fence, the locals informed the travelers that they could jump the barricade and venture closer to the flames. Their only warning was that if we fell in, no one would come to help us. Depending on how strong the wind is, the heat from the crater can be blown directly into the faces of unsuspecting tourists. The metal bars of the platform are still left dangling from where the gas used to be harvested, serving as a warning to tourists who may want to try their luck at approaching the Gates of Hell. The Darvaza Crater is definitely a must do when visiting Turkmenistan. If you are one of the fortunate travelers to get a visa to this secretive country be sure to add the Gates of Hell to your itinerary.

I traveled to Turkmenistan with Owadan Tours.