San Fermin Opening Ceremony
Getting to Pamplona
From Barcelona, the cheapest way to get to Pamplona is by bus. Monbus has several services throughout the day running to Barcelona with prices as low as 12 Euros. Trains, while quicker, can be twice the price. During my stay in Spain I had to book my transportation last minute. I was only able to make it to the San Fermin Festival in time by using the car sharing app: blabla car. Taking me with locals from Barcelona to Pamplona.
San Fermin Opening Ceremony: El Chupinazo
Most people regard San Fermin simply as being the running of the bulls. In truth, the San Fermin Festival is a week long holiday full of binge drinking and utter chaos, echoing the last days of Rome. I made my way through the winding tall streets of Pamplona towards the main square in front of city hall ( Plaza Consistorial) at 10am. Before entering, police made sure I removed the caps from all of my drinks, like one would do before entering a music festival. The alleyway opened up to a grand site of wall to wall people, moving like the waves of a red ocean.
No Place for Cameras
I found other photographers huddled under the refuge of balconies, avoiding the barrage of water and alcohol falling from the apartments above. People partaking in the festival would shout out to the balconies demanding water, wine, or alcohol. Soon enough, a bottle or bucket of liquids would splash down into the faces of festival goers. The other photographers had their cameras wrapped in plastic, safe from the continuous spraying of wine. Unfortunately, I was left continuously wiping off my lens from the ceaseless onslaught of liquids.
One Big Party
Despite most of the festival goers being obviously inebriated, it is quite possible that more wine was actually being thrown around than actually being drunk. Sangria is being dumped out of its bottles and squirted from flasks. Men would get up on their friends shoulders and engage in various chants, all that end in the entire crowd jumping and spewing their into wine in the air. Women were a bit less lucky when being hoisted up by their friends. They would be ruthlessly harassed by the men to take off their tops. Eventually, they were let off back to the ground, leaving the boys disappointed.
Shoving Through The Crowds
Despite the square being wall to wall, full of people, it is possible to make ones way towards the focal point of the festivities: town hall. While pushing through the crowd, more English was heard than Spanish. Over the years, the popularity of the running of the bulls has spread throughout the world, turning the San Fermin festival into an international holiday. Many of these tourists are here for nothing more than drinking tours, taking little interest in the cultural aspects of the holiday.
Basque County Demonstration
As soon as I reached the front steps of Pamplona town hall, the crowd unfettered a huge Navarre and Basque community flag. In recent year, the Basque National Liberation Movement (MLNV) has up to 277 people imprisoned. When approaching the demonstration with several other photographers, we were firmly told by protest organizers not to take photos. With the use of my tripod, I did manage to get some pictures of the banners along with a top view of the crowds.
Shooting of the Txupinazo Rocket
From the highest point on city hall, the nominated person to fire the rocket engages the crowd with a series of chants, shouting “Viva San Fermin! Gora San Fermin!” At 12:00 noon the txupinazo rocket was shot from the top of town hall with a bang. Along with the txupinazo, orange smoke sticks were lit covering the crowd in a mustard haze. The festival goers then take out their red scarves, present them to the city officials on town hall, and tie them around their necks. The San Fermin Festival has now officially begun.
Procession Out of Town Hall
Like a nail being hammered into a plank of wood, blue clad police exited town hall and split the crowd. What was already an extremely cramped space, now became unbearable due to being continuity pushed back by the police. After clearing room, groups of musicians or gaiteros emerge from town hall and enter the square. Once in the dead center of the crowd they begin to play with a blast, their music echoing throughout the city.
A Day Full of Parades
For the festival of San Fermin there are two sides, the party and the cultural scene. The wine never stops flowing for the 8 days that are the festival, but there is so much more to it than that. During the opening ceremonies, safety is a big concern. For those not wanting to battle the mob in front of town hall, renting a balcony is a popular option, but with prices starting at 400 euro a person. Even after the main square clears, music and parades are constantly taking place throughout the town. Making Pamplona into a city that doesn’t sleep.
What more information on Pamplona’s San Fermin Festival? Click here or here!
